anyone piped their tank with Aryclic tubing or Clear PVC?

[Milad]

Could I just not have a couple holes in the pipe at the top of the tank to break the siphon? or is it because it goes so far down that the holes wont work.

[superduperwesman]

What will stop water from spraying out the holes when the pump is on or am I miss understanding something?

[Milad]

when the pump is on, the holes are jsut under the water, when the pump is off the holes will be above the water

[untamed]

Originally Posted by Milad

Could I just not have a couple holes in the pipe at the top of the tank to break the siphon? or is it because it goes so far down that the holes wont work.

Originally Posted by Milad

when the pump is on, the holes are jsut under the water, when the pump is off the holes will be above the water

Sure..that will work. As will a check valve. Put both in place. I'm just saying that I would not want to be THAT dependent on those working...because if they fail during a power outage you are talking about complete death of the tank and flood damage to your house.

The holes WILL plug up. You'll need to keep those cleaned out all the time.

Check valves get stuck open. Especially if they don't get exercised much.

My returns go over the top edge of the aquarium and exit only 2" below water line. Even if my check valve fails, there is no way I can siphon more than 2" of water from the tank. Design to be fail proof. You'll sleep better.

[Funky_Fish14]

I would like to second the check-valve suckage thing... although I would like to say that please dont even design a system that uses or relies on one. IMO, and in my experience... they totally suck. MOST check valves (have seen many diff brands in action) fail. Stuff either gums up in them or the 'flap' if its rubberized 'gives out' or gets deformed into the 'open' shape.

Some are around that almost surely will not fail, but for me, thats not good enough. Why not simply design a system that doesn't worry about one, and simply takes care of itself hassle free, 100% guarenteed not to leak, and saves you the money of buying one. Just my opinion. (You can certainly include one if you want, but in a well-designed system, it wont be necessary).

[Bloodasp]

You could terminate it an inch or 2 below where your return goes inside your overflow. Just point the nozzle slightly downwards, That could alleviate the issue of the same water coming from the sump immediately going back into the sump.

[Milad]

damn you untamed and your knowledge
I rejigged it and put it 2 inches below the water level
for my tank it would be 15gallons if the holes pluged and the check valve jammed

I also changed out the tunze 6205 for two tunze 6105s

Watcha guys think?

[kien]

Looking good :-) You can eliminate one bend in your return line if you run the line closer to that outlet side of your sump and tank instead of right smack dab in the middle. Running it in the middle like that probably won't work too well anyway because that line will probably run into the skimmer. That is unless that end of the sump (closest to the overflow) houses the return section of the sump and not the skimmer.

kinda like this..


Oh, and if you are going to put two powerheads there I would consider making the overflow box smaller. Leave enough room on either side of the overflow box for the powerheads. In the future if you ever decide to go vortex they won't work at that end of the tank with your overflow box the way it is. Plus, adjusting the powerheads up and down or removing it for cleaning will be a royal pain in the ass if you have to fish out that magnet out of your overflow box.. trust me, been there tried that! I suppose you could put the magnets on the display sides of the tank. That wouldn't be too bad I guess.

[Milad]

What's a vortex? Also why would it be hard to adjust if the magnets are inside the overflow? I figured it would hide it all. Was even going to run the wires through overflow. If I made the width of the overflow skinnier and placed the heads on the glass wouldn't the wall of the overflow partially block the current?

Also you think the two powerheads are good enough controlled by a apex or should I get the 6205.

Thanks for all the help btw. Just want to get the correct parts the first time.