48" LED Array - Up and Running...Mostly

BlueAbyss · #1 03-19-2010, 03:16 PM

I only mentioned the RGBW in passing, I have no intentions of using them. I'll be using a 6.5K version. If they could fit 4 XR-Es into a 2" square, they would be a better option for my needs at the moment than the MC-E. I'm also considering using a 'light engine' and modifying it to my needs, rather than using the MC-E, but part of the reason I want to use the MC-E (with optics) is because it's something I haven't seen it done yet and I need this light source to be as compact as possible.

Ron99 · #2 03-19-2010, 04:46 PM

Calvin, what are the dimensions o f the tank you are trying to light? The XR-E is plenty up to 24" with optics. 40 degree optics will probably put you between 250 watt and 400 watt metal halide PAR. I'm actually going to do some PAR testing when I have the array up and running so that will give us all some real numbers to look at.

As for heatsinks, eBay can be good for all sorts. Mine were definitely not from any computer. I am using three that are 12 inches by 15 inches and weigh 15 to 20 pounds each. they were industrial heatsinks of some sort. Lots of industrial heatsinks show up on eBay which is what I was looking for. You can find large heatsinks for any application on eBay, especially if you don't care how pretty they are. I was more concerned with size and functionality as they won't be visible in the housing. If they will be exposed and you want them to look nicer then Heatsink USA is a better, albeit more costly, option.

BlueAbyss · #3 03-20-2010, 05:21 AM

Yours are definitely not from a computer

Curiously large heatsinks anyhow.

Hmm, I'll give you some background on my plan. I had a mysterious tank crash or illness take a few of my zoa colonies October / November, then I moved in December and lost my firefish and hermit crab. My goby is MIA, so assumed dead... So I'm left with 5 surviving coral colonies that I want to move into a second 10 gallon where I can better control the conditions (what I have now is pretty good for macros and crabs, but a little unstable for good coral growth).

The plan is to use a single 'spotlight' sort of light highlighting a rock island in the middle of the tank. Basically, an MC-E star surrounded by XR-E royal blue stars. I don't really think I'll use optics with them. I'll get to that with the 29 gallon tank later this summer, where I plan to use XR-Es and T5. I want to get away from halides, they project a lot of heat and I find it hard to deal with even with only a 70W.

EDIT: Found and read this tonight... very interesting. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/2/aafeature2

StirCrazy · #4 03-20-2010, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueAbyss

. Basically, an MC-E star surrounded by XR-E royal blue stars. I don't really think I'll use optics with them.
EDIT: Found and read this tonight... very interesting. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/2/aafeature2

Blue, from everything I have read the MC-E washes out the XR-E RBs which is why no one is using the MC-E in builds. maybe build it so it is easy to change out if you get that happening and want more blue. would be interesting to see how the PAR is on a MC-E with 40 degree optics.

I saw that article befor.. I don't believe either of the LEDs use optics so it is a good test for showing LEDs with no optices are just as good as T5s

Steve

Ron99 · #5 03-20-2010, 05:59 PM

I would be really hesitant to use an MC-E over a 10 gallon tank. Even without optics you might burn your corals. Without optics you won't get much of a spotlight effect as the LEDs emit over about 120 degree angle. But even so they produce a hotspot under the emitter, even without optics. If you want a spotlight effect you would be better off using a small array of XR-Es with 60 degree optics. And as Steve said, the MC-E may wash out your blues. There is a reason that both DIY guys and commercial companies don't use the MC-E. I see what you're thinking but I have my doubts it will work as you plan.

BlueAbyss · #6 03-21-2010, 03:31 AM

I see what you're all saying. I'm sort of tempted to use a single MC-E as a plant grow light though, I'll bet it will make for some stocky seedlings (like metal halide)... something to explore. But I see what you're saying about having it over a 10 gallon... not enough depth, I suppose you would need a fairly deep tank to make it worth it.

Alright, XR-Es it is! I still want to run them at a lower mA though.

Ron99 · #7 03-21-2010, 08:20 PM

Have the first row of LEDs wired up:

Here's a close up shot:

And the moment of truth...

The whites fired up:

And blues fired up:

They're bloody bright! Can't look directly at them.

Ron99 · #8 03-21-2010, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueAbyss

I see what you're all saying. I'm sort of tempted to use a single MC-E as a plant grow light though, I'll bet it will make for some stocky seedlings (like metal halide)... something to explore. But I see what you're saying about having it over a 10 gallon... not enough depth, I suppose you would need a fairly deep tank to make it worth it.

Alright, XR-Es it is! I still want to run them at a lower mA though.

I run XR-Es at 350mA on my 3 gallon pico. So you could run probably 500mA with optics and have enough PAR for SPS in a 10 gallon. I will be borrowing a PAR meter shortly and will measure PAR in the pico running 350mA and no optics for reference.