48" LED Array - Up and Running...Mostly

BlueAbyss · #1 03-20-2010, 05:21 AM

Yours are definitely not from a computer

Curiously large heatsinks anyhow.

Hmm, I'll give you some background on my plan. I had a mysterious tank crash or illness take a few of my zoa colonies October / November, then I moved in December and lost my firefish and hermit crab. My goby is MIA, so assumed dead... So I'm left with 5 surviving coral colonies that I want to move into a second 10 gallon where I can better control the conditions (what I have now is pretty good for macros and crabs, but a little unstable for good coral growth).

The plan is to use a single 'spotlight' sort of light highlighting a rock island in the middle of the tank. Basically, an MC-E star surrounded by XR-E royal blue stars. I don't really think I'll use optics with them. I'll get to that with the 29 gallon tank later this summer, where I plan to use XR-Es and T5. I want to get away from halides, they project a lot of heat and I find it hard to deal with even with only a 70W.

EDIT: Found and read this tonight... very interesting. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/2/aafeature2

StirCrazy · #2 03-20-2010, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueAbyss

. Basically, an MC-E star surrounded by XR-E royal blue stars. I don't really think I'll use optics with them.
EDIT: Found and read this tonight... very interesting. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/2/aafeature2

Blue, from everything I have read the MC-E washes out the XR-E RBs which is why no one is using the MC-E in builds. maybe build it so it is easy to change out if you get that happening and want more blue. would be interesting to see how the PAR is on a MC-E with 40 degree optics.

I saw that article befor.. I don't believe either of the LEDs use optics so it is a good test for showing LEDs with no optices are just as good as T5s

Steve

Ron99 · #3 03-20-2010, 05:59 PM

I would be really hesitant to use an MC-E over a 10 gallon tank. Even without optics you might burn your corals. Without optics you won't get much of a spotlight effect as the LEDs emit over about 120 degree angle. But even so they produce a hotspot under the emitter, even without optics. If you want a spotlight effect you would be better off using a small array of XR-Es with 60 degree optics. And as Steve said, the MC-E may wash out your blues. There is a reason that both DIY guys and commercial companies don't use the MC-E. I see what you're thinking but I have my doubts it will work as you plan.

BlueAbyss · #4 03-21-2010, 03:31 AM

I see what you're all saying. I'm sort of tempted to use a single MC-E as a plant grow light though, I'll bet it will make for some stocky seedlings (like metal halide)... something to explore. But I see what you're saying about having it over a 10 gallon... not enough depth, I suppose you would need a fairly deep tank to make it worth it.

Alright, XR-Es it is! I still want to run them at a lower mA though.

Ron99 · #5 03-21-2010, 08:20 PM

Have the first row of LEDs wired up:

Here's a close up shot:

And the moment of truth...

The whites fired up:

And blues fired up:

They're bloody bright! Can't look directly at them.

The Codfather · #6 03-21-2010, 08:39 PM

Nice.

Ron99 · #7 03-21-2010, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueAbyss

I see what you're all saying. I'm sort of tempted to use a single MC-E as a plant grow light though, I'll bet it will make for some stocky seedlings (like metal halide)... something to explore. But I see what you're saying about having it over a 10 gallon... not enough depth, I suppose you would need a fairly deep tank to make it worth it.

Alright, XR-Es it is! I still want to run them at a lower mA though.

I run XR-Es at 350mA on my 3 gallon pico. So you could run probably 500mA with optics and have enough PAR for SPS in a 10 gallon. I will be borrowing a PAR meter shortly and will measure PAR in the pico running 350mA and no optics for reference.

StirCrazy · #8 03-21-2010, 09:45 PM

hey Ron, have you decided how your going to run the maxwell dimming from the andurino? Never mind I see you used the PWM models. but how do you configure the signal from dimming in these ones?

Steve

Ron99 · #9 03-21-2010, 10:13 PM

Still needs a bit of extra circuitry as the Arduino puts out a 5V PWM signal and the Meanwell needs 10V. So it requires a 12V DC supply, a voltage regulator to get 10V, and a transistor that applies the 5V PWM from the Arduino to the 10V line.

Now I imagine you will ask why not just use a 10V DC supply without the voltage regulator? Most 10V AC/DC converters are not 10V. Some can be less but often they can be more; closer to 12V even. But the Meanwell dimming circuit is very sensitive and anything above something like 10.6 or 10.8 V will fry it so I want to make sure I have a steady 10V for the dimming. I may also use the same 12V converter to supply 5V with a voltage regulator to power the Arduino too rather than have a separate 5V supply for that.