My New 72"x20"x20" Tank Build

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by untamed

This works...Even if the fuge and sump are very similar heights, it is the difference in the water levels that powers the flow. For simplicity I have not drawn any baffles in the fuge. Without baffles, algae would get sucked out of the fuge. I'm sure you've got that part covered.

Yeah see that will not work then unless I really keep my sump water level really, really low. Basically, I could only have about 8" of water in it for this to work. I also cannot raise my fuge any higher. I think I need to figure something else out.

I am still working on the fuge baffles actually. Its hard to find something that will work as baffles in a rubbermaid container. So far I have nothing.

[untamed]

OK...assuming that is a pretty large pipe joining the two tanks....in your new drawings the fuge and sump are connected and will act as one single tank. The water level in each will always remain equal height. It doesn't matter where you put the return pump, the behaviour will be the same.

That will also enable the water to flow silently between them. (assuming both ends of the connection stay under waterline) I imagine that the end effect will be a very deep sump in order to keep adequate depth in the fuge.

Imagine reducing the size of pipe that runs between the two tanks. At some point, the pipe gets so small that the fuge needs to generate more head pressure to push through the water that is coming in. At that point, the fuge water level starts to rise in relation to the sump and you've created an non-adjustable Herbie.

If the pipe is too small to carry the incoming flow, even when the fuge is full (max head pressure), then the fuge overflows.

The bottom line is...if you put a gate valve on that line, you'll be able to adjust the water heights between the fuge and sump to whatever you want. If you want 10" in the sump, and 11" in the fuge...you can do it. Sump level is controlled by the total amount of water in the system...fuge level is controlled by the Herbie valve. Just make sure you have an emergency overflow on the fuge.

My answers are very long-winded. Why don't you just call me, or come visit? PM me if you are interested.

[mark]

Going from the photo, think about this.

Have the top of the sump and ref and about the same height. Inter connect with a large bulkhead as low as you can on the ref (no valve). Assuming the pump is on the far right of the sump with no baffles to the right, the water level in the ref will be the same as the pump compartment. Use a auto topoff to maintain.

Have no baffles in the ref other than a strainer on the bulkhead and maybe some eggcrating in front of the strainer. Negative is if the strainer gets blocked ref overflows so place a second interconnect at the top.

With the interconnect below no bubbles like Untamed said.

Not sure of your planned height in your in the pump compartment but adjust the ref height to max the volume in the ref tub.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by mark

Going from the photo, think about this.

Have the top of the sump and ref and about the same height. Inter connect with a large bulkhead as low as you can on the ref (no valve). Assuming the pump is on the far right of the sump with no baffles to the right, the water level in the ref will be the same as the pump compartment. Use a auto topoff to maintain.

Have no baffles in the ref other than a strainer on the bulkhead and maybe some eggcrating in front of the strainer. Negative is if the strainer gets blocked ref overflows so place a second interconnect at the top.

With the interconnect below no bubbles like Untamed said.

Not sure of your planned height in your in the pump compartment but adjust the ref height to max the volume in the ref tub.

Yeah this is similar to what Untamed has suggested. I just got off the phone with him actually. I am going to have a gate valve though in the line between the fuge and sump to create a bit of a herbie effect. He was explaining to me how it doesnt matter if they are at the same height, having a gate valve will still allow me to keep the water height in the fuge higher than in the sump if I wanted or the other way around. Im not sure if that makes sense how I wrote it but I think I "get it" now.

So there will be a 2" line between the fuge and sump with a gate valve to control the water level in the fuge therefore also controlling how much water flows between the two. There will also be an emergency drain at the top of the fuge, just like a regular herbie.

I will post pics as soon as I get the plumbing father along.

But thank you to all you guys who have helped so far...I couldn't have even gotten this far without all your help!

[untamed]

Originally Posted by GreenSpottedPuffer

...having a gate valve will still allow me to keep the water height in the fuge higher than in the sump if I wanted or the other way around. ...

...it won't ever work the other way around. You won't ever be able to make the fuge have LOWER water level than the sump. You probably wouldn't want that anyway!

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by untamed

...it won't ever work the other way around. You won't ever be able to make the fuge have LOWER water level than the sump. You probably wouldn't want that anyway!

No I would not. Wasn't really thinking of doing that either...just trying to say with the gate valve I get more control over the water levels!

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Well most of the plumbing is just about done. I will post pics when I have a chance. I have a question though...

My closed loop is mostly dry fitted but I still am not sure about how to do the outputs. I am thinking of just using 2" 90's or 45's that are not cemented so that they can be pointed in most any direction. Any one have any reasons I should nto do it this way. Besides the extra cost, I do not want to use lock line because its output is too small. The other problem I have though is the Eurobracing getting in the way but I think I can work around that. Any thoughts?