![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() ok, so I gets nuts here, beleave me, really nuts.
so I both 3 marine land visi-therm heaters, 300W each to heat 100 gallon. all fine, all 3 put at its max, and conected to my controller, that wil put all one at once at the set point of my controller (79 deg.) so after 3 weeks running fine, hmm, my tank water is realy cold (74), hmm, how come. checking the heater's, all fine (at least there LED is on) so you think, all fine, than I thought, lets put the power meter on it (that shows how much wat I use) and bang, only 220 watt for the 3 heaters. checking the amparage draw on my controller, and bang, only 2.2 amp draw for 900 watt heater. so I take them out, and 2 are cold, and what I do douse not matter, thy are gust cold. so quickly to the LFS to pick up A heater, gust to bump things up thy only had a topfin (douse not matter, as long as I can bring my temp up) the local reef stoor was closed, so ok the topfin running it for 4 days, temp all in check, and now, bang, down to 74 again. checking everything, and beleave it ore not, now the topfin heater gave way. again the LED working fine, but gust no heat, even if I dile the temp regulator, the LED is going on and off, but no heat. FFFFF, I gust dont have time tomorrow to get a new heater again. so the last 2 weeks I went threw 3 heaters, and 2 brands FFFF the heaters say that thy are fully submerseble, but I wonder if this is right, as in the first 2 that went, I se moisture . |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() So if you connect all the heaters to 110 V and bypass the controller, all 3 do not get warm to touch? Definitely not good to have moisture in the glass tube. Maybe they are not submersible.
I wonder if your controller is still good? |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() ehiem.....nuff said
but ya it does seem kinda odd that three heaters arent working properly..... must be something else
__________________
260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Strangely even with the eheims everyone says you can submerse them. 1 of my 3 has moisture in it... still operates but i don't like it. It's the gen before the current ones.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I have heard that as well, but don't they have a water line on them?
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Best heater was the Ebo Jager before they were bought out. I have one that has worked perfectly for the last 12 years.
|
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
On a different note, I think you are setting yourself up for disaster. First, what is the room temperature? Do you have more plumbing than usual (say plumbed to basement) or something like that? I'm wondering why you need 900 watts of heaters, that is exorbitantly huge for a 100 gallon system. I have a 150 watt heater on my 90 gallon tank that I just installed a couple days ago because the temp is dropping a bit too low at night this time of year (it hasn't had a heater on it since spring). Secondly, when heaters fail they usually quit working, however it is also very common for thermostats to fail which often means the heater will be stuck ON. Depending on your room temperature, a single 300 watt heater on 100 gallons of water could very well do a great job of cooking your tank and all it inhabitants. I lost two full tanks to this over a decade ago, and have since learned to use multiple small heaters so that if one gets stuck on it won't be powerful enough to cook the tank. Third, if your controller ever fails your three 300 watt heaters will surely cook the tank very quickly. I think you would be better off setting each heater to say 84 degrees (something your reef should be able to withstand). Then if the controller fails the tank will only heat to 84. Redundancy is the best insurance we can get for our tanks! |
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I have two 150 watt Stealth heaters in my 77 & they've been reliable for me. Yes, these are the ones which are the subject of many disaster threads regarding heaters. I think mine are the older made in Italy models though & like I said they've been great so far.
Anyhow, these are supposedly fully submersible but I've never felt comfortable dropping a heater, control knob, cord & all fully into the water. I always respect the max/min level marks on any of my heaters and keep the control knob & cord above the water line. I cringe whenever I see a photo or any tank in person with a heater fully submerged. I don't care what the manufacturer says, there's got to be some sort of seal between the control knob & the internal workings of the thermostat in the heater and over time, it will eventually fail leading to a safety issue & possible disaster. Even the ones with the temperature control separate still have a seal where the electrical cord enters the heater body which could fail over time. Less likely for these since there's usually a ton of epoxy to water proof the point of entry, but nothing is completely foolproof. Same goes for powerheads, that's one of the reasons I'm a VorTech proponent. I guess bottom line with any heater seems to be luck of the draw as to how long they will last. Mindy's post has some great advice as to how to minimize the chance of a heater failure crashing your tank.
__________________
Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 12-11-2011 at 03:38 PM. |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Good point, my heaters are all at an angle too with the tops out of the water. Only the bottom half or so of the heater gets hot, and the thermostat is just above the heat coil. As long as the thermostat is under water that's enough.
|