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#1
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![]() I think stone can work with a modern look, but maybe not that stone. That particular stone (as per the model) is going on our exterior. Also I was planning on using that exterior stone for some columns in the theater/Wetbar. Our two story fireplace and feature has this stone:
![]() Anyways I am still not sure about going full depth as it forces me to have an overflow on the bedroom side, and power heads will all have to go on the bedroom side as well also it means for sure I need front access. This depth is as depicted is 40". If I wanted to maintain some rear access I think would need at least 18" behind the tank, shrinking the tank to a depth of 22", which is not ideal. I'm still not sure how to best use this space, I think the shower can get much smaller. ![]() ![]() |
#2
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![]() Are the bathroom drains already in place and has the basement slab been poured? Also, could you show a floor plan of the entire basement?
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#3
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![]() Yeah slab is poured and drains are in place, no framing yet. The builder will do the framing for me, but that's all, after that it's all me! I see lots of work ahead of me!
Here is the proposed layout. Last edited by Seth81; 10-01-2015 at 10:48 PM. Reason: Fixed pic |
#4
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![]() You can move the shower, the drain doesn't have to be centered, it can offset to one side but the framing would be a little weird unless you widened the whole bathroom. Either way that would allow for the extra space needed. Also busting up concrete and moving drains is actually very easy
![]() But if it was me I'd probably just make the tank 36" or even 30" deep to allow for the overflow, some plumbing and whatever else. Access from front is really for the best anyway. Every once in a while you'll need to scrap and clean near the seams of the glass, would be a nightmare from the back on that size of tank. Some stuff in this hobby is hard enough, doing it backwards doesn't seem like the smartest way to enjoy it. |
#5
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![]() True the shower doesn't have to be center to the shower especially with a tiled shower. But the slab has a hydronic radiant floor heating system, so there is no way I will be moving that drain!
Yeah maybe front access is all that's needed? Maybe also go to 90" so there is room on the sides so I can mount some power heads? Quote:
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#6
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![]() Yeah for sure front access would be sufficient, pretty much like most tanks are situated. You would still have decent access to part of the back as well though, 58" out of 90" is basically two thirds so most of the tank can be access from behind as well.
Just a quick thought for the shower, if you extend the bathroom wall 6" down the page, and center a 36"x36" shower pan on the drain and put a 12"x36" bench on bottom of page side you'll gain a little more clearance (6") for the tank would negatively effecting anything else. |
#7
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![]() Yeah the bathroom and shower could be shrunk down. So I think this could work, but I will have to go to site to make sure I'm okay for the shower drain.
If my drawing is accurate, I should be able to accommodate a 96"x30"x30" with about 24" behind the tank and about 3.5" on the the sides (the 8'4" measurement is between the posts) Any thoughts about this layout if it works? I still am not sure about allowing for front access to top and bottom and what if any material to make any cabinetry out of. All I know is I want to use some material that is already in use in the house so the tank looks like it is suppose to be there. |
#8
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![]() That layout looks pretty good and if you stick to only 30" wide back access only won't be terrible if it's too challenging to make front access work with your finishing plans. You'll have lots of time to figure out those details relating to access and finishing but some cabinetry type finishing that matches what was used elsewhere (kitchen, bathroom, wet bar, etc) is one option. Few examples:
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#9
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![]() Your new layout looks really good Seth! I like the photos Steve posted up too. Not rock work you were wanting, but I think the above photos are more modern looking anyway.
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