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#1
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![]() I don't have a booster pump, so am not familiar with it. But that second link I sent you has the schematic for a booster pump without an ASOV like you probably have set up. Is your el wiring as in the first link? and your plumbing set up as in the second link?
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#2
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![]() I have looked at the second link again, the one with the plumbing connections.
Seems you need to install that check valve. Make sure that its in line properly, not reversed. It needs to be able to flow towards the RO membrane. If water is constantly flowing into your drain, even when the RO water is shut off, as at that time when the float valve shuts the ro off, Then the only shut off you have left that is supposed to be working is the electrical solenoid. This should be shutting off the incoming water. Because you do not have a check valve installed, the system will not hold pressure and the solenoid will never think that enough ro water is made. So the solenoid will reopen and the pump will turn on trying to make more ro water. But the float valve is closed, so everything will go to the drain. The flow restrictor will allow water to flow slowly to the drain, finally releasing pressure in the system and the whole operation will repeat Install the check valve would be what I would do |
#3
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![]() Hillegom:
I don't have an electronic solenoid valve on my water supply, just a manual one. That would certainly work to shut everything off and would really make an ASOV redundant. Lol, well now I'm feeling just a bit sheepish. I totally forgot I ordered an ASOV and check valve from Ray and it just showed up. So I went downstairs to hook it all up and upon closer inspection (a lot closer) there is a ASOV hiding way in behind my dual membrane that I never saw there before. But there isn't a check valve. So I inserted it and now my waste water does stop (albeit after about 3-5 min) once the pressure rises enough to cut out the booster pump. So I guess that at least helps to shut it off if I forget to turn the system off. |
#4
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![]() The pressure tank is not needed.
In the diagram I put up, follow the flow. The back pressure across the asov is created when the float valve (connected to output of di) in your brute is closed forcing the diaphram in the asov downward to shutoff flow coming from the third stage. The check valve is required so the asov doesn't reopen due flow in waste line removing pressure. The source of the pressure is from the supply (even with pump off).
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my tank Last edited by mark; 04-21-2015 at 11:51 PM. |
#5
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![]() Yeah, that's right. With it set up that way, my RO/DI system will kick in every time the ATO pump does and draws a bit of water out of the Brute. I guess now I am wondering if a pressure tank or two would supply say 2 or 3 cycles of my ATO before my RO/DI system turns on, thus prolonging the run time through the membranes to avoid what Mike was describing in his post.
That might have been why, in my brain, I thought 1 long cycle of the RO/DI was better than many quick cycles that this set I now have gives me. ... and then again, maybe I'm totally overthinking the whole thing, lol |
#6
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![]() to my mixing station I come off the rodi to the water barrel. Water barrel has a float valve and a small JG type valve between the rodi and the float. When I want to fill the mixing barrel I open the JG valve a the float prevents a flood.
You go do similar, every few days refill the brute, your ATO doesn't short cycle your rodi.
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my tank |
#7
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![]() Anyone ever use one of these? Although, now that I've thought about it for 2 seconds, I guess an Apex could accomplish the same thing...
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/hi-lo-ta...el-controller/ |