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#1
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![]() you probably wont. I also live in a townhouse and as they try to make us all use less water they put a tiny line onto each tap in the house so you have bugger all pressure. my unit wont go past 20psi without a booster pump.
my water lines are all connected to the main in the cupboard under the stairs in the garage where my water tank is. the mains are tiny so I have no way of increasing pressure. Dunc |
#2
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![]() So does it matter that it will only run at 30psi???
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#3
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![]() It's not brilliant.
First of all it takes forever to make a bucket of water. Secondly, you'll go through filters quicker and thirdly I think you waste away your membrane quicker. From what I've read I believe you want to be around 45-60 psi for optimum water:waste ratio. |
#4
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![]() Man I should have just stuck with the store water. Now I've got to spend another $100 for a booster pump. Good thing I kept the receipt so back the damn thing goes.
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#5
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![]() Is there a restrictor of some sort that I'm missing?
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#6
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![]() Nope. If the gauge says 30psi, that's all you have going to the unit.
__________________
Brad |
#7
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![]() I'm using the faucet adaptor. If I plumbed it under the sink would it change anything?
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#8
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![]() you'll need a booster pump and a high pressure shut off. in other words , a pressure switch
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#9
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![]() Not saying this is it, but I have one of those and my pressure would be up and down, whether it was on or off. I found that the waste water was always running and that led to finding that the waterline connection on the RO part, not being tightened and air was either being sucked in or pushed out so the pressure was always low. Tightened it back up and it worked great.
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