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#1
07-09-2013, 10:39 PM
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If you actually figured out the structural calculations on everything you would find 2x4 design way way way more then enough to support your tank. If built correctly.
Using 2x6 would be solely for peace of mind, look up on google on a somewhat rough design on how others have built there stands and follow suit. Don't be cheap on screws! 
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#3
07-10-2013, 02:34 AM
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DIY Stand
I am thinking using this build plan. Was thinking about using some joinery and minimize the usage of screws, but not sure if I can get it right or not.
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150DD mix reef with 90 gal sump and 40gal frag tank purple tang, sohal tang, yellow eye kole tang, fairy wrasse. cleaner wrasse, leopard wrasse, and misc fish. GHL Mitras 6200HV X 2, MP40 X 2, MP60 X 1, tunze 6095 X 2, Vertex RX6 calcium reactor, Bubble King SM250, Aquamaxx bio pellets reactor, Profilux 3
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#4
07-10-2013, 03:20 AM
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That's the plan I've used to build a few stands. They are rock solid. You can forgo the inside screw strips if you pocket screw, but I like the idea of leaving them in. Rocketengineer also has a formula there somewhere for sizing your top framing for tank sizes and spans.
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#5
07-10-2013, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
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150DD mix reef with 90 gal sump and 40gal frag tank purple tang, sohal tang, yellow eye kole tang, fairy wrasse. cleaner wrasse, leopard wrasse, and misc fish. GHL Mitras 6200HV X 2, MP40 X 2, MP60 X 1, tunze 6095 X 2, Vertex RX6 calcium reactor, Bubble King SM250, Aquamaxx bio pellets reactor, Profilux 3
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#6
07-10-2013, 05:07 AM
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same plan i've used for every stand i've built that was 2x4 or 2x6 construction. incredibly solid. i add a horizontal piece in the middle of the bottom frame to match the top. sheathing on the back and sides also prevents it from being able to tilt in either direction.
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