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Old 07-10-2013, 03:20 AM
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daplatapus daplatapus is offline
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That's the plan I've used to build a few stands. They are rock solid. You can forgo the inside screw strips if you pocket screw, but I like the idea of leaving them in. Rocketengineer also has a formula there somewhere for sizing your top framing for tank sizes and spans.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:03 AM
apexifd apexifd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daplatapus View Post
That's the plan I've used to build a few stands. They are rock solid. You can forgo the inside screw strips if you pocket screw, but I like the idea of leaving them in. Rocketengineer also has a formula there somewhere for sizing your top framing for tank sizes and spans.
I will like to do pocket holes, but can't find a jig at good price.
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150DD mix reef with 90 gal sump and 40gal frag tank

purple tang, sohal tang, yellow eye kole tang, fairy wrasse. cleaner wrasse, leopard wrasse, and misc fish.

GHL Mitras 6200HV X 2, MP40 X 2, MP60 X 1, tunze 6095 X 2, Vertex RX6 calcium reactor, Bubble King SM250, Aquamaxx bio pellets reactor, Profilux 3
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:07 AM
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same plan i've used for every stand i've built that was 2x4 or 2x6 construction. incredibly solid. i add a horizontal piece in the middle of the bottom frame to match the top. sheathing on the back and sides also prevents it from being able to tilt in either direction.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:35 AM
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Thats the design I used also when building my stand ... before adding face frames etc
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:37 AM
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Heres the one I built.

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...hlight=lojacks
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