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  #1  
Old 06-30-2013, 05:39 AM
MoreDakka MoreDakka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...272#post793272
I made this DIY water sensor with just a couple nails, solder, and some wire. Works great, even with fresh water. It acts as a switch, open when dry, and closed when wet. Then you need a device, like a controller (I use my Apex), that will turn a pump switch off, when this is on. Or you could build a relay that trips a switch on and off. Lots of ways to do it...
That looks like a sweet simple idea that could sit at the top of a tank or something like it. Do you have a pic of it in place?

I've got my overflow system outside testing and it's been running for 3 days straight. The only problem is the crap that builds up on the ABS pipe, the slits I cut. It captures everything. What can I do to solve that?
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:10 AM
hillegom hillegom is offline
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You could put an acrylic box around the pipe with slits. Say a 6x6.
If you notice, the reef ready tanks have the overflow mounted to a back wall.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreDakka View Post
That looks like a sweet simple idea that could sit at the top of a tank or something like it. Do you have a pic of it in place?

I've got my overflow system outside testing and it's been running for 3 days straight. The only problem is the crap that builds up on the ABS pipe, the slits I cut. It captures everything. What can I do to solve that?
The slits on my PVC pipe are only 1/4 inch, but because they are long and many with the pipe in the horizontal position, never did have any clogging problems. But if you look closely at my pic, you will see an elbow on the end with an open end pointed upward. That is the emergency overflow, in case the slits do get clogged.
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Last edited by Reef Pilot; 07-02-2013 at 02:44 AM.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreDakka View Post
That looks like a sweet simple idea that could sit at the top of a tank or something like it. Do you have a pic of it in place?
That's the only pic I have. But it just taped to the floor with masking tape underneath my sumps. So if anything goes wrong, and water ends up on the floor, it shuts everything off and sends out alerts and alarms.
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:06 PM
MoreDakka MoreDakka is offline
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Hey,
So in my sump, how high should I have the baffles? I don't know where to find much information on that....In the first post I've got a pic of the baffles but don't know how high to cut them.,
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:58 PM
newsaltfan newsaltfan is offline
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Default Which skimmer?

You need to determine what skimmer you are using first. From what I've read the NAC3.5 runs best in 8-10 inches of water. Where as the NAC6 runs best in 9.5-11 inches. So your first baffle should correspond with these dimensions.

Or build the first baffle at 11 inches and raise the skimmer if needed.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:47 AM
MoreDakka MoreDakka is offline
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Here is a good question for yall.

How do you silicone the bubble trap? 1" difference no hand can get in there to do that. I'm sorta at a loss...

Thanks.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:56 AM
MoreDakka MoreDakka is offline
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Also, trying to find the correct silicone as from what I'm reading GE I isn't good anymore...

Found this stuff, says aquarium safe:



Yes...I know it's white but whatever, it's a sump. I remember reading that weather shield in the green bottle from home hardware is good to go.
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:52 PM
newsaltfan newsaltfan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreDakka View Post
Here is a good question for yall.

How do you silicone the bubble trap? 1" difference no hand can get in there to do that. I'm sorta at a loss...

Thanks.
Ok, you're going to have to use your imagination here for a few minutes. These items are not to scale....

Cardboard box = tank

Tea container = Spacer (equal to the width of your first camber) ice-cream pail, Tupperware container, paint can whatever works as an appropriate spacer

Book = 1st Baffle of Bubble trap (assuming you are using 3)

Stand the tank up on end, place "Tea container = Spacer", position the baffle and add silicone. My attachment pic only shows to this point.

Add another appropriate sized spacer (pucks for example) position baffle #2 add silicon. Remember to use a spacer to keep the baffle off the floor of the sump. Something small that you can get out of the bubble trap once the silicon dries.

Repeat, add more spacers on top of baffle number 2 (more pucks) position baffle #3 add silicone. Now you're thinking I’ve only added silicone to one side of each baffle? True but you will have close to equal pressure on both sides of those baffles you just need the silicone to hold them upright to force the water to the surface.

Now leave it alone for a couple days, DO NOT STAND IT UP. Let the silicone cure. If you don’t wait long enough and stand it up to soon the 2nd baffle will slump and not maintain its gap off the sump floor. I know you added spacers under baffle #2 but its not worth the chance of them moving. Trust me I’ve made that mistake and had to start from scratch...

I hope that makes sense.

Oh, and I have used that silicone, well the clear, with no issues at all.
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  #10  
Old 07-09-2013, 07:45 PM
MoreDakka MoreDakka is offline
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Awesome description, thanks. I first read that on my email with no image and I'm like "someone has gone off the deep end" @_o .

That's a great way to do it, rather than trying to level it all out.
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