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#1
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![]() I agree with fishyfishy.
That "contraption" is scary. If the power went out and you lost your siphon, the tank will overflow. You should have separate returns for each overflow. Here is a link for a DIY overflow http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/overflow.html |
#2
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![]() Here is a PVC overflow I used when I had a refugium connected to my sump. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...846#post794846
You need to be sure it is self priming, and can't collect bubbles that might break the siphon.
__________________
Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#3
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![]() i would seriously consider spliting the overflow drain into two. if the overflow gets blocked past your "T" you're screwed.... at least if they are plumbed individually you have redundancy. i have had no issues with my DIY system which is like yours but individually plumbed.
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#4
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![]() Quote:
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I've added another piece but it's pouring rain and can't show it off. I'll get more pics tomorrow. PS - canreef forums are much better than reefcentral. They seem stuck up over there and no one wants to talk to or assist newbs... Thanks all. |
#5
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![]() I know from your other post you don't like aquagiant, but you can get David to cut you glass pieces for your baffles cheaper than using acrylic, worst case, he can build you a sump
He can also drill your tank for bulkheads Last edited by scubadawg; 06-27-2013 at 10:01 AM. |
#6
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![]() I haven't started work on the sump yet, wanted to make sure that this overflow is solid and so far I'm really impressed with it's startup. Also I've already cut those pieces of Acrylic so might as well use those. That being said, how much is glass to have cut for a sump?
So added the next step to this test setup. ![]() This is the part where the water drops in and the siphon is kept in check without draining the whole tank. This mock up isn't cut very well, going to have to figure out the best way to cut ABS plastic. I like the black because once it's in the tank it looks almost like any other overflow (minus the tuck tape at the bottom, that will be sealed properly). Also had to add rocks to the bottom to weigh it down. I'll probably just use sand in my main tank. Just to make sure it doesn't float up. Or any other suggestions? ![]() ![]() You thought it was chaos before. Now it's just funny. I didn't want to buy extra pieces just for this test setup so this is what I came up with. There was a lot of wind lately so I couldn't have the water just fall into the bucket, it just blows outside the bucket then by the end of the night the pump is running dry. ![]() |
#7
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![]() Wow you sure do like to make a lot of work for yourself. By this time you could have just drilled a normal hole and made a normal overflow that will work 100%
Tuck tape. Nice touch!
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#8
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![]() But that would mean taking my tank apart, drilling it and putting everything back in. Now which is more work? Unless of course you know of a way to drill with livestock in the tank?
I'm hoping this will be just as reliable with the way I'm building it. Going to have a water sensor as well to kill the power once as a last resort. That's more of a project that I will need to figure out. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
I made this DIY water sensor with just a couple nails, solder, and some wire. Works great, even with fresh water. It acts as a switch, open when dry, and closed when wet. Then you need a device, like a controller (I use my Apex), that will turn a pump switch off, when this is on. Or you could build a relay that trips a switch on and off. Lots of ways to do it...
__________________
Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |