|
|
|
|
|
#1
04-12-2013, 10:11 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
 Wow, that's beautiful woodwork!!! Looks like you've got the canopy on a tank, so let's see some more!!!Thanks for sharing!
__________________
My 180 GL Reef Tank http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=81842 My 55 GL Reef Tank - shut down http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=87764 
|
|
#3
04-12-2013, 11:15 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Quote:
The next step I took care of was soldering up my DIY LED's. I purchased 3 heat sinks, and made 3 separate units. Each unit contained 12 Royal Blue (460nm) and 12 Cool Whites (6500K) wired into meanwell drivers controlled by RapidLED's dimmable controller.   White Test:  Blue Test:  They work! Time to mount Oh wait ... pure Chaos!!  Chaos Cleaned up  You can see that the right side is whiter than the left side. This meant that I needed to adjust the SVR2 setting on the driver for the blues on the left pendant which was taking slightly more amperage than the others. A close up of a single heat sink 
|
|
#4
04-12-2013, 11:26 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Time to move back one step ... because the canopy was built after I had the plumbing done ... but it screwed up my sequence for the Journal.
So lets get to the plumbing. First the tank needed to be drilled. Plumbers putty and a bit of patience to the rescue:  And thanks to trickery of photography ... I'm done   After the holes were drilled I painted the back ...  And then began construction on the Coast to Coast Overflow  And voila!  The pump is a Reeflo Dart (3600 GPH)    And because I used the Beananimal overflow ... 3 standpipes  There is also a 1" line that diverts from my 1.5" piping on the return that circulates back into the sump. This is for a filter sock. But because my overflow doesn't go to the sock, there is a 0% chance of an overflow because of a plugged filter sock.  The return on the pump is diverted into 4 separate outlets of loc-line that have fan nozzles and locline ball valves. This gives me full control in terms of flow. If I have a piece that can't handle the high flow, I can turn down 1 of the ball valves decreasing the flow in one area and increasing it in another.  
|
|
#5
04-13-2013, 02:47 AM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
nice bro looking really good. where is the fans for the heat sink
__________________
180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think.
|
|
#6
04-13-2013, 04:00 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
|
#7
04-13-2013, 04:29 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Very nice work. Hope you don't mind, but I copied a couple of your corner post pics. I saw something similar on a reefcentral post a while back but couldn't find it again. I'll save it for posterity
 An idea I saw (I can't remember where) for hanging heatsinks is run them on pocket door track. That way when you have to work in your tank you can just push them back on the rail and they're not hanging in your way. Just a though if you hadn't seen it done.
|
|
#8
04-13-2013, 05:04 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Quote:
I thought about actually doing a thread dedicated to just the stand and canopy ... because I have 10 times as many build pics as I showed here. Most people are interested in the tank and the livestock, so I focus on those when sharing on the forums. As for the pocket door rail, thats a stellar idea. I am fortunate enough to have a rather tall canopy, and my heat sinks hung high enough that they have never been in the way while working in the tank. My hanging set up is very caveman ... but it does the trick and is hidden inside of my canopy.
|
Hybrid Mode
