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#1
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The main thing with HOB overflows is to ensure the flow rate through the u-tube is high enough to prevent a siphon break.
It is still always smart to simulate siphon breaks to ensure the tank won't flood. My fail safe was making the pump chamber of my sump small so that the display tank would not overflow if the siphon breaks. Keep the flow rate high, and have a fail safe. If you do that, HOB overflows are just as good as a drilled overflow, IMO. Quote:
Lifereef makes a good product, I own one, but they are by no means fool proof. They are essentially the same design as the Eshopps PF series overflows, but are made of thicker acrylic. They are also really pricey, especially for Canadians ($50+ shipping). |
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#2
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Well thanks for the posts guys. Are there any LFS' that carry the LifeReef HOB overflow box?? I might be takin the Viper into Edmonton on Friday for servicing so I could pick it up then. Also, gonna pick up some Radions, and put my Mazarra's in the sump for the fuge.. Gonna have LED's all over the place..lol
I like the idea of making the pump chamber small as well. One other thing I was thinking of was installing a low level cutoff on the pump chamber. This way I have a 3rd backup, if the level in the pump chamber drops too low, the switch will kick it off. Hmm, I like that one..lol |
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#3
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you must order direct from Lifereef. shoot Jeff an email and see what he can do for you.
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#4
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If you order the nano overflow box / slimline design, make sure you get the black color as they advertise. I got the clear plastic one and when I asked why, I got a response from Jeff (the owner) "no matter black or clear, it will eventually cover with algae anyway"
Anyway, I am happy with the quality of this overflow box. But if I had known there was the Eshopp box around that has the same design like Lifereef, I would have saved more than half of the money by not buying this overpriced overflow box from him. |
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#5
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If you're going to go through all the work of installing float switches, why not put a hi level switch in the tank to kill the return pump and stop flooding
The switch shouldn't ever gum up - it should always be dry if all is running properly Then you can put an ATO system in the sump |
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#6
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Excellent point!! Thanks for the advice, I may have to go that route. |
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#7
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Running a pump dry is never a good idea, even as a method of preventing a flood. While many modern pumps have thermal protection to trip power when they run dry or overheat, you're still risking a fire. Your hardwood floors won't get warped, but the house could burn down. So good call on some sort of float switch to cut power as a safety measure.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build Last edited by mike31154; 07-17-2012 at 04:19 PM. |
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#8
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The silencer is garbage. I ended up just making a hofer gurgle buster myself, which worked 10x better and it didn't cost $20. |
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#9
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http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...t_ID=esh-ofnan
This is exactly what you need. SET UP PROPERLY, you should NEVER get a break in siphon. |
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#10
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Quote:
![]() The only reason HOB overflows have a bad rep is because people use them incorrectly. |