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Old 07-16-2012, 03:33 PM
The Guy The Guy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04V10 View Post
Hey guys,

I am shopping for an overflow box for my 20 gal, as I am currently building a 10 gal sump. Anywho, I have been seeing quite a few threads on people being freaked out about syphon break and how drilling the tank is the way to go (i agree on drilling btw however my tank is already up and running and I know there is no one around where I'm from that could drill it. I know I would break it..lol).

Here's my thought on the topic, and please someone chime in if there has already been a discussion on it. What I was going to do is simulate a syphon break, I would then monitor the amount the level drops in the chamber with the return pump, until the tank is about to flood over. I would then mark this level on the sump wall and mount the return pump so the suction is at or slightly above this level. This way, if the overflow box was to have a syphon break, the pump would try to continue to pump, however the level in the sump chamber with the return pump would drop to the point where the pump lost suction. This would prevent a flooding situation in my display tank and ensure that my hardwood flooring, as well as the gyprock on the roof in the lower level is not damaged.

I know that I would probably fry the pump if left too long, however, replacing a pump is so much cheaper than having warped hardwood flooring and replacing the roofing in the basement. lol.

Let me know what you think... Any other ideas would be great. thanks. Ooh and if anyone has a lifereef HOB overflow that they want to get rid of let me know..lol

Gary.
Have look at this product , 24 years in business no failures.http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:21 PM
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As others have said, get a new drilled 20g then you can rescape or run an overflow that is worthy, I was looking at the design of some of the overflows and some needed an aqualifter pump to prime and suck the air out, too much tinkering, I like the drilled overflow method, although saying this my next tank will have a coast to coast external overflow so I don't have an ugly box in the tank, also it will have 3 drains because you can't have too many safety in the hobby....
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:28 PM
kole kole is offline
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I have a Lifereef on my 70 gallon and an eshopps on my 180. Both are routinely stopped and started with no problems. If your not drilling then one of these HOB's would be a good choice. Much better than the ones that rely on a aqualifter to restart IMO.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:27 AM
hillbillyreefer hillbillyreefer is offline
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I have a lifereef on my 110g. Been running for3 yrs without a problem. A bit pricey, but worth it if you don't want to drill.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:40 AM
Borderjumper Borderjumper is offline
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I used a life reef for 2 years on a past tank and had absolutely no problems with it Highly recommend it
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:55 AM
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The main thing with HOB overflows is to ensure the flow rate through the u-tube is high enough to prevent a siphon break.

It is still always smart to simulate siphon breaks to ensure the tank won't flood. My fail safe was making the pump chamber of my sump small so that the display tank would not overflow if the siphon breaks.

Keep the flow rate high, and have a fail safe. If you do that, HOB overflows are just as good as a drilled overflow, IMO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clown lover View Post
Have look at this product , 24 years in business no failures.http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html
That is a BS advertising claim.

Lifereef makes a good product, I own one, but they are by no means fool proof. They are essentially the same design as the Eshopps PF series overflows, but are made of thicker acrylic.

They are also really pricey, especially for Canadians ($50+ shipping).
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:21 AM
04V10 04V10 is offline
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Well thanks for the posts guys. Are there any LFS' that carry the LifeReef HOB overflow box?? I might be takin the Viper into Edmonton on Friday for servicing so I could pick it up then. Also, gonna pick up some Radions, and put my Mazarra's in the sump for the fuge.. Gonna have LED's all over the place..lol

I like the idea of making the pump chamber small as well. One other thing I was thinking of was installing a low level cutoff on the pump chamber. This way I have a 3rd backup, if the level in the pump chamber drops too low, the switch will kick it off. Hmm, I like that one..lol
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2012, 03:45 AM
brotherd brotherd is offline
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you must order direct from Lifereef. shoot Jeff an email and see what he can do for you.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:43 AM
Casey8 Casey8 is offline
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If you order the nano overflow box / slimline design, make sure you get the black color as they advertise. I got the clear plastic one and when I asked why, I got a response from Jeff (the owner) "no matter black or clear, it will eventually cover with algae anyway" I didn't want to argue about it at that time, but I know the box should come as he has advertised. Also, I paid an extra $19 for the silencer and $10 for an extra U tube as he insisted, but I actually never needed them. The silencer, have it or not, it doesn't make very much difference with the noise. I had to pay $30 for the shipping as well, which cost a little too much for just an overflow box.
Anyway, I am happy with the quality of this overflow box. But if I had known there was the Eshopp box around that has the same design like Lifereef, I would have saved more than half of the money by not buying this overpriced overflow box from him.
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2012, 05:04 AM
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If you're going to go through all the work of installing float switches, why not put a hi level switch in the tank to kill the return pump and stop flooding
The switch shouldn't ever gum up - it should always be dry if all is running properly
Then you can put an ATO system in the sump
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