Warning

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by justincgdick

You could just replace the standard breaker with an arc fault

I also added a few switches so I can easily shut down my CL and return pump if I need to for maintenance without digging around and tracing wires.

It's also handy to use a labeller to label the plugs and matching cables. That way everything has it's place and is easy to unplug/ plug in.

Arc faults have their drawbacks, but are a good addition if used correctly

I use the GFCI test button as as switch if I don't unplug something

I agree and all my stuff is labelled

[kole]

The fires were started with saltwater dripping on the power bars. Will a gfci stop or prevent the fire from starting or would you need a afci? I have no idea if it would or would not. I thought gfci were more for the physical safety of the person working around the tank.

[banditpowdercoat]

A AFI would offer more protection, but I think one needs both?. A GFI will only trip if it senses current going to ground, not back on the neutral. One can have a short on a GFI, between the hot and the Neutral and it not trip. Conversly, a AFI only trips when it senses an arc. Be it to ground or neutral. Most cases a AFI would work. Not on halide lights, I'm not sure. But say a pump leaks some to the tank, a AFI won't pick that up, a GFI will. AFI's can also trip by just switching or unpluging components. Heaters can sometimes trip them as well.

Like everything in this hobby, nothing is foolproof

[Doug]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

A AFI would offer more protection, but I think one needs both?. A GFI will only trip if it senses current going to ground, not back on the neutral. One can have a short on a GFI, between the hot and the Neutral and it not trip. Conversly, a AFI only trips when it senses an arc. Be it to ground or neutral. Most cases a AFI would work. Not on halide lights, I'm not sure. But say a pump leaks some to the tank, a AFI won't pick that up, a GFI will. AFI's can also trip by just switching or unpluging components. Heaters can sometimes trip them as well.

Like everything in this hobby, nothing is foolproof

Yup, they wont fire halides. And yes, they do sometimes, {not often}, trip when pulling a plug. My home has AFI/GFI as standard breakers for both bedrooms and bathrooms. I believe its code here but not sure.

My office/fishroom, has that receptacle plus I installed a separate dedicated 15a line with its own GFI.

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

A AFI would offer more protection, but I think one needs both?. A GFI will only trip if it senses current going to ground, not back on the neutral. One can have a short on a GFI, between the hot and the Neutral and it not trip. Conversly, a AFI only trips when it senses an arc. Be it to ground or neutral. Most cases a AFI would work. Not on halide lights, I'm not sure. But say a pump leaks some to the tank, a AFI won't pick that up, a GFI will. AFI's can also trip by just switching or unpluging components. Heaters can sometimes trip them as well.

Like everything in this hobby, nothing is foolproof

actualy a GFI measures the difference between the hot and the nutral, doesn't measure the ground at all. so this is wrong.

An arch fault breaker is esentualy useless on a fish tank unless you have an animal that chewes cords, especialy if you have MH lights, and I recomend against having them on anything important as they frequently have false positive trips. they are still trying to design a more reliable arc fault. It does pee me off that they made a misfunctioning componant code, hopefully they will come out with a more reliable version soon.
basicly if you have an electric motor, MH lighting, or any old school relays don't use Arc fault..

Steve

[banditpowdercoat]

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

actualy a GFI measures the difference between the hot and the nutral, doesn't measure the ground at all. so this is wrong.

An arch fault breaker is esentualy useless on a fish tank unless you have an animal that chewes cords, especialy if you have MH lights, and I recomend against having them on anything important as they frequently have false positive trips. they are still trying to design a more reliable arc fault. It does pee me off that they made a misfunctioning componant code, hopefully they will come out with a more reliable version soon.
basicly if you have an electric motor, MH lighting, or any old school relays don't use Arc fault..

Steve

No, I'm not wrong. It measures the difference between Hot and neutral, yes. So if it leaks to ground, it sees a difference. if the circuit is normal, or even if device has an internal short to neutral, it will not trip. Current flowing in the hot lead, equals current flowing on the Neutral. Only other place it can go is ground.
I mighta worded it a little funky, but by sensing the current to ground, it uses the imbalance of the H-N wires



And yes, in all new construction or wiring reno's, AFI is code in BC for bedrooms and bathrooms.

[justincgdick]

Being electrician, I would not bother with the arc fault. The gfi will be your first line and the breaker will trip if you short something.

[kole]

I read somewhere, probably here on canreef, that if you have gfci's then you need to have a grounding probe in the tank as well. What about the question I asked about the gfci preventing fires in the situation like what happened to the op. I don't think they are intended for that sort of protection more for personal protection when working around water with electricity. By the way I not arguing anything here. Since we have some electrician's posting I would like to get the information from those who would know more about these things than me.