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#1
05-12-2012, 11:53 PM
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You could just replace the standard breaker with an arc fault. It's my opinion that the gfci is the most important piece.
It's really smart to have multiple GFIs. You don't want to lose every piece of gear at once, especially if you are on vacation or whatever. Losing a powerhead isn't the end of the world like your whole system shutting down for a few days. Greg pointed out on my DIY build that I only had one GFI. I was going to run everything through it, but I don't want to lose the whole system at once. My tank is fresh water, and a lot lower risk, but it's still a risk. I ended up getting six GFIs and pretty much splitting each item to it's own GFI. You can share low risk things like dosers, fans, etc. but your return pump, CL, skimmers, etc. should really have their own. I also added a few switches so I can easily shut down my CL and return pump if I need to for maintenance without digging around and tracing wires. It's also handy to use a labeller to label the plugs and matching cables. That way everything has it's place and is easy to unplug/ plug in. 
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#2
05-13-2012, 01:08 AM
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I use the GFCI test button as as switch if I don't unplug something I agree and all my stuff is labelled
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#3
05-13-2012, 01:51 AM
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The fires were started with saltwater dripping on the power bars. Will a gfci stop or prevent the fire from starting or would you need a afci? I have no idea if it would or would not. I thought gfci were more for the physical safety of the person working around the tank.
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#4
05-13-2012, 03:28 AM
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A AFI would offer more protection, but I think one needs both?. A GFI will only trip if it senses current going to ground, not back on the neutral. One can have a short on a GFI, between the hot and the Neutral and it not trip. Conversly, a AFI only trips when it senses an arc. Be it to ground or neutral. Most cases a AFI would work. Not on halide lights, I'm not sure. But say a pump leaks some to the tank, a AFI won't pick that up, a GFI will. AFI's can also trip by just switching or unpluging components. Heaters can sometimes trip them as well.
Like everything in this hobby, nothing is foolproof
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5
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#5
05-13-2012, 02:22 PM
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My office/fishroom, has that receptacle plus I installed a separate dedicated 15a line with its own GFI.
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Doug
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#6
05-13-2012, 02:27 PM
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An arch fault breaker is esentualy useless on a fish tank unless you have an animal that chewes cords, especialy if you have MH lights, and I recomend against having them on anything important as they frequently have false positive trips. they are still trying to design a more reliable arc fault. It does pee me off that they made a misfunctioning componant code, hopefully they will come out with a more reliable version soon. basicly if you have an electric motor, MH lighting, or any old school relays don't use Arc fault.. Steve
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 *everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive.
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#7
05-13-2012, 03:17 PM
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I mighta worded it a little funky, but by sensing the current to ground, it uses the imbalance of the H-N wires And yes, in all new construction or wiring reno's, AFI is code in BC for bedrooms and bathrooms.
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 Last edited by banditpowdercoat; 05-13-2012 at 03:19 PM.
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#8
05-13-2012, 04:18 PM
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Being electrician, I would not bother with the arc fault. The gfi will be your first line and the breaker will trip if you short something.
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