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#1
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All the Bean does is place the secondary at the same height of the main, so it's less prone to floods. Then you still have an emerg as well. And all 3 are large pipe. Plus, the Bean is self-adjusting, and our Herb's aren't fully auto. |
#2
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 Last edited by fishytime; 02-14-2012 at 01:16 AM. |
#3
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![]() Below is my 50g with the BA drain system. As some have mentioned here and BeanAnimal has in his threads, Horizontal is not how his system is meant to run. Vertically is the best way to make his system run optimally. There are no bends/elbows for the water to hit, causing friction, hence slowing down. Unfortunately, this isn't always possible, as you will see below.
In the first image from left to right- Secondary drain | Siphon Drain | Emergency I have a slight horizontal run, about 4", before it 45's down to the sump. I tried to avoid this but the way the Oceanic stand is built with the center brace, I couldn't. While this isn't the way the system is designed, it does work and is quite. If you have to go horizontal at all, it's best to make it as short as possible. On my 75g image (SPS tank in the works), the Siphon line isn't completely vertical, but it still lets gravity do it's job. I could have drilled at the upper back corner for all 3 drains, but I didn't want my mini C2C to be offset to one side, and opted to drill at the upper center, just under the brace. In all honesty, the "reef ready", Herbie and BeanAnimal all work with the same thing in mind, drain the water to the sump. The BeanAnimal has the advantage of a failsafe channel and +3000gph through 1.5" plumbing on a completely vertical system. I'm sure that a Herbie through 1.5" could probably do the same, if not close to gph. When it comes down to it, do we all really need the BA system? The answer is no. I really think it's more of a "reef geek" thing. Just like PC lighting, to HO, to Halides, to T5HO, and now LED's, it's the latest/greatest thing since sliced bread ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#4
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Thought you should edit your post to not mislead others ... From left to right, based on your valve in the center, you have yours setup as;
Last edited by gregzz4; 02-14-2012 at 05:28 AM. |
#5
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![]() So, I made it home tonight.
I lifted the drains out of the sump so they were just 1/2- 1 " into the sump water level, and restarted the system. It purged the air much quicker. Level in DT did not rise above the overflow box level. No where close to an overflow, at close to 1000 GPH. Now it's tough getting the level and noise in the DT overflow to stabalize/quiet down. The main syphon seems noisy, like air is trapped in the overflow section Tee. It must be a residual air purge issue. Tom |
#6
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![]() If I understand correctly, Bean runs his drain 2" below his sump level
Have you looked @ his page? http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...w-system.aspx/ |
#7
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![]() NM, I just skimmed it and it only states 'just below the water level' or such.
I read somewhere that people are running theirs @ 2" with success. It helps draw the water down as there is no air in the lines. If your's is better now, leave it be. Good luck with the overflow, you'll figure it out. |
#8
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#9
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![]() Don't want anyone new to this getting confused |
#10
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You can't hear it from work ![]() Remember, I'm setting up a Herbie, so don't pick on me. I'm just stating what I've learned about the Bean. It's self-adjusting and virtually flood-proof. The Herbie is very close to this, but is NOT flood-proof. |