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#1
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I have managed to make my system go dead silent at the DT end. Not sure what it's like 1/2 way along. I just want to make it flow a bit more than 900 GPH, and be able to restart without my assistance. Also, I think those horizontal sections makes the system take a lot longer to purge air, and to find it's equilibrium. I'm sure yours will be fine with a couple 22.5 bends. Tom |
#2
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![]() please forgive my ignorance but......whats the advantage of the Bean overflow over the Herbie?......Ive never used one, nor do I think Ive ever seen one being used on anybodies system that Ive seen.....seems like quite a lot of extra expense (two gate valves and three bulkheads versus one gate and two bulkheads) and fiddling around with the Bean......
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#3
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#4
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![]() With the Bean Animal, the 2nd and 3rd valves are only there to completely isolate those lines during maintenance.
The advantage over a Herbie is thus; The first line takes full flow as it's completely submerged. The second, open channel line (with the air line) may take some overage from the first, but has air introduced into it, so it takes no time to handle the overage - there is no purging. When the overflow rises enough to block the end of the air line, the second now becomes full flow. The third line is there as a last resort/backup. Last edited by gregzz4; 02-13-2012 at 11:14 PM. |
#5
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#6
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All the Bean does is place the secondary at the same height of the main, so it's less prone to floods. Then you still have an emerg as well. And all 3 are large pipe. Plus, the Bean is self-adjusting, and our Herb's aren't fully auto. |
#7
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 Last edited by fishytime; 02-14-2012 at 01:16 AM. |
#8
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![]() I have gone through this befor with a basement sump. I also have the same pump as you and hose size .
There's not a big difference in our set-ups. My horizontal run is 16'. The most critical part for basement sump is all that horizontal laying pipe slowing down the inertia of flow. I have found that creating a angled as oppossed to a true horizontal run was the key to getting the air forced out of the siphon line , the other lines were all left horizontal. In this pic you see the sipon line up higher then the rest of the lines ![]() From the top of the truss I just shimmed the return line to create a angle until I was at the bottom of the truss. ![]() Oh ps. the small drilled hole is ment to be just above the waterline when the sump is at running level, this reduces the pressure at the end of the hose which allows the air to purge. |