Bean Animal drains not draining properly

[Daimyo68]

The drains in the sump should be in a chamber where the water level is normally stable. I know what your saying about the level going up and down on restart.

Do you have them in the skimmer section? Thats the best place for them. Even when restarting, the skimmer section should never drop below a given level. Mine is 10". This is due to the baffles being at 10", and even when the water level drops elsewhere in the sump, the minimum in the skimmer/drain section will always be the same.

Something else about the pipe being under the water is that you can have the siphon a little bit deeper than the other pipes. It helps promote the siphon on restart.

There was also something else in his thread that mentioned drilling a small hole in one of the ends of the pipes, but I don't remember for sure where that is.

It seem like your right about there though and your just minor adjustments away from being done

[molotov]

I'm tagging along.

I too am seting up a BeanAnimal. My spa-flex coming from my three bulkheads is only 1" as opposed to 1.5" so I'm hoping this will not be a problem for me. I'm also running all ball valves. No gate valves. I may have to really play with the ball valves to get everything in balance but will try it first with the ball valves. If it proves to difficult I may have to switch to a gate valve.

[braid11]

Originally Posted by Daimyo68

The drains in the sump should be in a chamber where the water level is normally stable. I know what your saying about the level going up and down on restart.

Do you have them in the skimmer section? Thats the best place for them. Even when restarting, the skimmer section should never drop below a given level. Mine is 10". This is due to the baffles being at 10", and even when the water level drops elsewhere in the sump, the minimum in the skimmer/drain section will always be the same.

Something else about the pipe being under the water is that you can have the siphon a little bit deeper than the other pipes. It helps promote the siphon on restart.

There was also something else in his thread that mentioned drilling a small hole in one of the ends of the pipes, but I don't remember for sure where that is.

It seem like your right about there though and your just minor adjustments away from being done

Well, after talking to Jeff at J&L, a knowledgeable guy I trust at a LFS here, I decided to go with one big sump, and some partitions they sell to divide the sump into sections for fuge etc. But water flows through them. Sump is 72*30*24, an old acrylic tank.

The tank bulges a lot, so it’s tough to cement in baffles to create a stable section where the water level stays the same. But I can see how useful that would be. I have all the materials, may have to try that.

Tom

[braid11]

So, I bought the big hammerhead in order to both feed the DT, and to tee off the return line to feed a fuge, and possibly a carbon Reactor, and a UV unit. I can see that would make dialing in the system very very tricky.

I have the tee in there, shut off for now with a TUBV.

May have to just feed the fuge off this, and nothing else.

molotov, those 1" gate valves aren't too pricey. I am finding it very usefull to mark the valve with a magic marker, and turn 1/8 or so at a time, on both the pump return and the drain. I had planned on using the TUBV only on the fuge, but another gate valve will definitely go in there.

Tom