LED DIY with photos

[eli@fijireefrock.com]

It took me about 15 minutes to get some solder on 2 end of each LED (-+) and here are few more photos
here is sawing the U shaped aluminum using an ultra fine metal blade


Here is the solder station out of the box



Here are all the LED 24 pcs total


This is me (concentrating ) placing the beads on the LEDs

[sphelps]

I don't see any flux in the pics, did you use any?

[The Grizz]

I believe that is a flux induced solder wire that he is using.

Glad I didnt go this way........I HATE soldering.

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by The Grizz

I believe that is a flux induced solder wire that he is using.

Glad I didnt go this way........I HATE soldering.

Aww, c'mon man, you're a welder. Soldering is nothing more than low temp welding.

[eli@fijireefrock.com]

Originally Posted by The Grizz

I believe that is a flux induced solder wire that he is using.

Glad I didnt go this way........I HATE soldering.

Soldering for me is like being in another world (world of piece )
all soldering is done I have a visitor so put everything on hold for couple hours.but 1st here is a mix of photos with no labels yet..

[DiverDude]

I dunno, that wire seems awfully thin for the kind of current that array is going to draw....

Where'd you get the Hakko 936 ? Those have been discontinued for a while now (I have 2 of 'em)

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by DiverDude

I dunno, that wire seems awfully thin for the kind of current that array is going to draw....

Where'd you get the Hakko 936 ? Those have been discontinued for a while now (I have 2 of 'em)

Ya, 28AWG is small stuff. I think it's still within the ampacity limits for the current he's running, but might be worthwhile upsizing that several iterations to pad the safety factor. Thinner wire also presents more resistance & therefore voltage drop. This could be a factor depending on how many are hooked up in series with that tiny wire. Look up ampacity & you'll find plenty of charts. Here's one example:

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

According to the chart, max current for 28AWG in a chassis wiring application is 1.4 amps or 1400 milliamps. That stuff could be tricky to solder as well. A little too much heat & the insulation will shrink back a ways or even start cooking.

[eli@fijireefrock.com]

I will post few more pictures and info later on tonight as the array was finished yesterday.
The wire I am using is of no hassle and is of correct amperage resistant to what its used for and its a little tricky not to strip it whyle soldering.
Unfortunately I need to upgrade to a bigger heat sink as the U Chanel aluminum gets too hot if run the array at full blast witch what I intend to do.So I have to wait a couple days to receive a 1.8" X 36" heatsink from Martin.

[eli@fijireefrock.com]

Originally Posted by DiverDude

Where'd you get the Hakko 936 ? Those have been discontinued for a while now (I have 2 of 'em)

I think I got it from B&E by your recommendation about a year ago and I must say that I love it

[eli@fijireefrock.com]

While waiting for a couple fans and a heat sink here are couple photos of the 80% finished array

Here is what I am placing as lens on each LED as I had some laying around from a prior DIY with some phylips LED and must say these lens fit perfect.


All lens are on tight,last night I cut and bent an acrilic sheet for a cover I must say it turned out a perfect shield




and now its wired and ready



Plug is going into the wall and voila





Man its bright too bad the camera doesn't do it any justice.