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#1
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Like I said, I tested it extensively, and could not think of a scenario where it could fail. Just make sure everything outside of the water is properly glued and airtight. Of course the absolute best is a drilled tank, but if for some reason you can't drill it, or don't want to, this definitely works.
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#2
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![]() I don't understand this design. Do you have an exemple in pics?
So I guess the only disaster scenario is if air gets inside and it lose syphon? then it wont work and the water coming from the sump is going to overflow the tank. I guess putting the pump high enough so not as much water can be sucked if it overflow is a good practice ![]() Looks great anyway. on a 15 gallons nano I don't want to drill or put anything in the tank beside the pump and that overflow pipe. It really look good with only these.
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#3
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It doesn't matter where you place your return pump. It is the overflow design itself that regulates the water level in your tank. In my case I actually was using a canister filter, and just stuck the input hose into my sump, with the airline plumbed into the intake side. This way I could switch the input to either my tank and use it as a QT, or to the sump and use the tank as a refugium. Many ways to do it. As long as the siphon airline is connected to the intake side of the return pump, you can't go wrong.
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#4
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#5
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The beauty, too, of this design, is that the tank side plumbing does not need to be glued, and you can keep making adjustments to fit the tank until you are satisfied with the design. When I was actually using this overflow as a refugium, I only had the slots (no emergency elbow) and macro algae, chaeto, caulerpa, etc, would collect there, but it never came close to plugging. The slots allow a lot of flow, and as the water rises, more slot area becomes available on the pipe. But I did keep an eye on it, and was planning to add that elbow on the end if necessary.
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#6
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![]() While we're on the subject of modifying designs, for adjusting overflow tube height you could add a 'slip union' to the tubing. Here's a picture of my skimmer with one of these unions incorporated into the return line. It's just above the ball valve used to regulate water column height in the skimmer. Using one of these unions will enable adjustment in the neighbourhood of 3 inches on the overflow. Sufficient for most applications.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#7
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![]() Yeah, if you wanted to get real fancy, a slip union would help. But like I said, the inside tank plumbing isn't glued, so some room for adjustment up and down anyway. I still have a good portion of a 20' PVC pipe left over, so no big deal cutting new pieces.
I see you like DIY stuff, too. Good job... I am setting up another 140g tank downstairs, and trying to figure out all plumbing in my sump room. My current 100g DT is upstairs. I will share the same sump initially, but then will set up another sump into this already tight room. Never ends...
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#8
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![]() My worries were more in case the main pipe would get clogged, lets say if a fish manage to get inside. I guess this is very unlikely anyway. In that case that the main pipe would be clogged inside, no emergency elbow would help. This is why the design with 2 overflow is a bit safer I tought.
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#9
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But your design there would work, too, with the 2 pipes. I just think it is a little overkill.
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#10
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