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#1
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Yes that's a very nice one and I will probably do a double one for my 75 gallons tank like this one here:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...-166240-5.html or this one which doess not have to be glued in the tank: http://theprodigalcube.blogspot.com/...flow-pipe.html Those are really nice double overflow and with a double one, if one part glog, then it won't be that dramatic so it is safer to use on large tank. I built that simple one for my little nano 15 gallons so I did it in 3/4" and I have a pump that is rated 1800 gallons per hour but it is just a little bit too strong once with the head of 3", so I am going to put a ball valve and adjust the flow so it is in a safe margin. I built mine with 3/4" CPVC and 3/4" should be around 220 gallons per hour. What I like about those pipe overflow is that they take very little space and are not so ugly as the boxed ones that are sold. I have a black tunzee one that I don't even use as I find it too ugly and if you want the water level to be high in the tank this thing need to be so high that it is really ugly. The pipe overflow is very nice and can be hidden in a beautiful home made box and the water level adjusted very presicely. I may try this one you posted instead and make two for my 75 gallons. I see so many nice design now. But I was wondering if any one had a disaster hapened with these and if so then why? I know they can get glogged if a fish fall inside or plant debris etc...But I guess it is not worse then any other overflow? Quote:
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
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#2
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I tested mine extensively, and could not find a scenario where it would flood or fail to restart. The emergency overflow elbow (not shown in my pic) would come into play if the slots got plugged. So it was not necessary to have 2 overflows in mine.
And again, let me emphasize the importance of that airline tubing connection to the intake of the return pump. Without that, I would never trust it, and of course it makes restarting the siphon automatic. I also had an airline valve in the tubing that I could adjust or close if I wanted. I do not have the inside tubes glued, so I can adjust for different heights or take apart for cleaning if I like. Of course anything outside of the tank water has to be glued On mine, the outside T is a little high because I had to clear the top of my sump. If it is set lower, you can handle an even higher flow. But at 1.25 inch PVC, I had lots of flow regardless. I was using this to connect my refugium to my sump, and just disconnect it (not run the return) if I want to use it as a QT. Worked great.
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#3
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To my knowledge it there is a power outage it will drain to a point and stop, like any overflow, and in terms of getting clogged, I think it could happen, but could be easily cleaned with a brush. if I wasnt going drilled this is the one I would use personally
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I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
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#4
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Like I said, I tested it extensively, and could not think of a scenario where it could fail. Just make sure everything outside of the water is properly glued and airtight. Of course the absolute best is a drilled tank, but if for some reason you can't drill it, or don't want to, this definitely works.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
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#5
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I don't understand this design. Do you have an exemple in pics?
So I guess the only disaster scenario is if air gets inside and it lose syphon? then it wont work and the water coming from the sump is going to overflow the tank. I guess putting the pump high enough so not as much water can be sucked if it overflow is a good practice ![]() Looks great anyway. on a 15 gallons nano I don't want to drill or put anything in the tank beside the pump and that overflow pipe. It really look good with only these.
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
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#6
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It doesn't matter where you place your return pump. It is the overflow design itself that regulates the water level in your tank. In my case I actually was using a canister filter, and just stuck the input hose into my sump, with the airline plumbed into the intake side. This way I could switch the input to either my tank and use it as a QT, or to the sump and use the tank as a refugium. Many ways to do it. As long as the siphon airline is connected to the intake side of the return pump, you can't go wrong.
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#7
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Quote:
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build |
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#8
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The beauty, too, of this design, is that the tank side plumbing does not need to be glued, and you can keep making adjustments to fit the tank until you are satisfied with the design. When I was actually using this overflow as a refugium, I only had the slots (no emergency elbow) and macro algae, chaeto, caulerpa, etc, would collect there, but it never came close to plugging. The slots allow a lot of flow, and as the water rises, more slot area becomes available on the pipe. But I did keep an eye on it, and was planning to add that elbow on the end if necessary.
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#9
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[quote=daniella3d;668817]What I like about those pipe overflow is that they take very little space and are not so ugly as the boxed ones that are sold. I have a black tunzee one that I don't even use as I find it too ugly and if you want the water level to be high in the tank this thing need to be so high that it is really ugly. The pipe overflow is very nice and can be hidden in a beautiful home made box and the water level adjusted very presicely.
QUOTE] Have you looked at notching the top of the glass and adding an external overflow to your tank? No ugly boxes or pipe in the tank what so ever and no space used up in the tank. I don't know if the tank is empty or not so this may or may not be an option for you. |