Best top off system?

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by asmodeus

see mindy another smart one plumbing it straight to your RO line is so much eaier and safer. IMo and IME the float valve cant fail its full of air.

But I have horseshoes as well

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by fishytime

ATO to RO is a disaster waiting to happen..

Probably. but I've got mine running through a solenoid that is only open enough in 24 hours to compensate for evaporation. So for a disaster, I'd need the float, shutoff valve and solenoid to all fail. Could happen I suppose, but so far I'm happy.

[Skimmerking]

Originally Posted by fishytime

ATO to RO is a disaster waiting to happen.....never plumb an ATO to an unending water source, or a reservoir big enough to cause a drastic salinity swing......RO membranes function best when they have water running through them for more than just a few seconds.....short run times, like when you have it plumbed to an ATO will shorten the lifespan on the membrane....

Agree with ya there Doug on the life span. but my water is 980 coming out so i might as well have some happiness withthe RO DI line

as for the RO line running the Kalk reactor when the water goes in it only goes in at the speed as the small union is screw into so If I want 3 drips per second coming out. Then 3 drips per second will only go in.

[martinmcnally]

I used to have a Tunze. Pump would burn out every few months to the point where I was buying 3 at a time. Then the unit died one day

Ordered a kit from this guy: http://autotopoff.com/

I got the solenoid version so I have it plumbed directly into my filter. Never had a problem or hickup since. That was about a 2 years ago now.

[Douglas]

I use this system, with an aqua lifter, in my tank/sump. it hasn't failed me yet. Just another option. And is cheaper.

http://www.aquariumsupplies.ca/tsuna...tem-p-840.html

[mark]

go the mechanical float valve (for furnace humidifier from HD, $12) connected directly to RO/DI. 6 years, zero problems, can't say I notice TDS creep, only second membrane since started (and believe probably changed out first when didn't have to), simple.

Yes there's a risk but the valve is continuously being flushed with fresh water and really this is the same valve used on furnaces. Figure there's a whole bunch more furnaces than fish tanks and can't ever say I've heard of someone flooding their basement because the humidifier screwed up.

[lastlight]

Just got my osmolator back online last night topping up the new tank. Dumping several gallons by hand everyday wasn't difficult but man I love the convenience of my Tunze! The pump is going to be on much longer each time so I'll have to see what that means in terms of its lifespan.

Originally Posted by mark

the valve is continuously being flushed with fresh water

Not to mention the furnace version would be flushed with regular water so there could be buildups. I still am not a fan of this method though.

[pscott99]

Mark how did you mount the HD float. I am looking at that today also. As long as you don't have too large of a supply bucket this will work fine for my tank. I do have one on my furnace. If I was running a 30gal bucket I wouldn't take the chance. I am actually using a simple gravity feed with a loop tied in the pvc and even that works fine. The float will give a little better control.

[TimT]

I use a Little Giant livestock waterer with an acrylic rod mod and nylon bolts/nuts to attach it. Plumbed via a 1/4" shut off valve(to reduce flow) to my 75gpd ro membrane with auto shut off valve. 0 failures in 12 years. 3 membranes in 12 years too.

If you can't do it that way then I would recommend the Tunze. I stay away from American labeled off shore crap whenever possible.

[mike31154]

Plumbing ATO directly to RODI system probably works fine if your tap TDS is 10 or less like many folks on the west coast are fortunate to have. No way I'm doing that, not only because I don't trust direct hookup even if there hasn't been a flood, but also because my tap TDS is 210 or more. It only takes one flood to ruin your day, or crash your tank. Might as well use treated tap water like I did for the first year my system was set up. I was never any good at horsehoes and with my relatively high source TDS, it takes the membrane a while to get that down to an acceptable level.

As mentioned, my tap TDS is 210+ & I've observed my dual TDS meter showing around 180 TDS after RO when I initially turn the system on. It then takes a good minute or more (depending on time of year) to get down to a TDS of 2. After a few more minutes it finally gets to 1 TDS. I usually check again after about 15 minutes and during the colder months, the output of my 75 gpd membrane is then down to 0. All this tells me that if I want my DI media to last longer, I'm better off making my DI water in large batches. The first few gallons I produce are always diverted as RO only for drinking, cooking, coffee etc. If I were to run my ATO directly off the RODI, with short bursts of water produced governed by my top off, I'm pretty sure I'd be going through DI media like there's no tomorrow. I'm on a fixed income and can find better ways to spend my $$s.