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#1
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![]() ATO to RO is a disaster waiting to happen.....never plumb an ATO to an unending water source, or a reservoir big enough to cause a drastic salinity swing......RO membranes function best when they have water running through them for more than just a few seconds.....short run times, like when you have it plumbed to an ATO will shorten the lifespan on the membrane....
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#2
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![]() Probably. but I've got mine running through a solenoid that is only open enough in 24 hours to compensate for evaporation. So for a disaster, I'd need the float, shutoff valve and solenoid to all fail. Could happen I suppose, but so far I'm happy.
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Brad |
#3
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![]() Quote:
as for the RO line running the Kalk reactor when the water goes in it only goes in at the speed as the small union is screw into so If I want 3 drips per second coming out. Then 3 drips per second will only go in.
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#4
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![]() I used to have a Tunze. Pump would burn out every few months to the point where I was buying 3 at a time. Then the unit died one day
![]() Ordered a kit from this guy: http://autotopoff.com/ I got the solenoid version so I have it plumbed directly into my filter. Never had a problem or hickup since. That was about a 2 years ago now.
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Western Database - Custom database, software design and cloud hosting. |
#5
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![]() I use this system, with an aqua lifter, in my tank/sump. it hasn't failed me yet. Just another option. And is cheaper.
http://www.aquariumsupplies.ca/tsuna...tem-p-840.html Last edited by Douglas; 12-07-2011 at 11:03 AM. |
#6
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![]() go the mechanical float valve (for furnace humidifier from HD, $12) connected directly to RO/DI. 6 years, zero problems, can't say I notice TDS creep, only second membrane since started (and believe probably changed out first when didn't have to), simple.
Yes there's a risk but the valve is continuously being flushed with fresh water and really this is the same valve used on furnaces. Figure there's a whole bunch more furnaces than fish tanks and can't ever say I've heard of someone flooding their basement because the humidifier screwed up. ![]()
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my tank Last edited by mark; 12-07-2011 at 02:00 PM. Reason: added picture |
#7
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![]() Just got my osmolator back online last night topping up the new tank. Dumping several gallons by hand everyday wasn't difficult but man I love the convenience of my Tunze! The pump is going to be on much longer each time so I'll have to see what that means in terms of its lifespan.
Not to mention the furnace version would be flushed with regular water so there could be buildups. I still am not a fan of this method though. |
#8
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![]() Mark how did you mount the HD float. I am looking at that today also. As long as you don't have too large of a supply bucket this will work fine for my tank. I do have one on my furnace. If I was running a 30gal bucket I wouldn't take the chance. I am actually using a simple gravity feed with a loop tied in the pvc and even that works fine. The float will give a little better control.
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28gal reef tank nov 2010 |