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#11
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![]() Is there tile directly under the tank? If not, I still don't think you need to reinforce. A 7 year old house will be built to a standard that a fish tank with a mere 12-13" water depth is nothing to worry about especially with the perpendicular walls so close to the tank (as it appears in the diagram anyway). If there is tile right under the tank, then I think Steve's suggestion to run the support beam along the foundation wall is the best bet. You need to protect the wood from moisture though if it will be in contact with concrete.
Last edited by Myka; 12-06-2011 at 12:04 AM. |
#12
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![]() What is the distance from the Foundation wall to LVL ?
And what is 'LVL' ? One thing I see that would make me uncomfortable is it looks like you are asking the plywood sheeting to take the whole load. If this is true, and the tank is not sitting directly on the joists, I'd recommend you sister those joists far enough under the tank so the plywood doesn't deflect and fail. Plus that would take out your tiles ![]() There is a formula for sistering, but I can't find it on the web right now. |
#13
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![]() Yes. the tank will sit on tiles
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The space that is underneath the tank is reserved for another big fowlr tank that I plan for future, so the sump will eventually move down to basement. Therefore i don't want any post underneath the tank My new calculation is from wall to LVL is 17.3 feet. the tank will be 1.8 feet from the wall. And it will be 10 feet long so about 5.5 feet from the LVL Quote:
Here is my latest sketch
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155 gallon bow front Last edited by Coleus; 12-06-2011 at 02:08 AM. |
#14
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![]() Was thinking of putting a LVL beem with two metal posts
Future for another tank that hook up with the upstairs tank
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155 gallon bow front |
#15
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![]() Ohhh...I think you're going to be in trouble without reinforcing the plywood since the tank is sitting in between the joists. Just a slight movement will pop those tiles off. Another option is to pull up the tiles that will be under the tank and install them with flexible thinset and sanded silicone grout.
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#16
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![]() What about putting two beams, either side of the tank from the foundation wall to the two green verticals. Either with your idea of using steel posts or drilling into foundation wall and installing hangers, the same to the green vertical posts.
Then you can install two or more beams right to left, between these beams with a hanger like the ones used here http://www.ilevel.com/roofs/r_MicrollamLVL_beams.aspx this way, you would not lose too much height in the basement you would use 2x8 or 2x10s (more research needed here. This would only hold up your existing floor joists. As mentioned already this would not support the plywood floor that the tank sits on. |
#17
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![]() can you make the stand for the tank wider then it needs to be?....... it would distribute the weight over a greater area and give you some piece of mind......but really.....135 g over 10' shouldnt be an issue.....especially if the house is new and assuming the framers did the floor properly
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#18
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![]() Quote:
yeah id have to agree if you were hitting the joists with your tank you would be in a better position(depending on the type of tile/stone and if it was set right) personally i would remove the tiles all together where the tank sits and double up the plywood with 1/4" ply to fill the void or do as doug said and build the stand so its a little bigger than the tank and sits on the joist edit****
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........ Last edited by reefwars; 12-06-2011 at 03:33 AM. |
#19
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Thanks for everyone inputs so far, I learned lots of new stuff today
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155 gallon bow front |
#20
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