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#1
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![]() what is the space under where you want to put the tank. problem is especialy with tile any deflection will crack the grout and possibly tiles. adding a tank they will realy increase the movment in the joists.
what is the distance from the foundation wall to the wall with the green posts? if the space under the tank isn't used for anything I would be trmpted to run one or two beams (depending on the span) parallel to the foundation wall to stiffin it right up and minimize any chance of deflection. this may be overkill but better to do it that way then not good enough. of course this would take 4, 2X10s and 4 jack posts but if the space below the tank isn't use for anything then it is still a fairly cheep option. weather you need one set or two would depend on the span from the foundation wall to the LVL beam. Steve
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#2
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![]() Be warned that adding jack posts at random on a basement slab could do more harm than good. Typical basement support posts are placed on pre planned piles to minimize effects from ground expansion. Other areas in the basement don't offer such protection, in you put in a post and jam it tight any movement from the basement slab will transfer to the main floor. The seriousness of it depends on the soil conditions and the foundation but if you have cracks in your slab it's a good sign not to add such support posts.
Best option I think would be to add a beam from green post to green post if possible, however there must be support there already even if it's down the line further. So it's possible you're over thinking this, if your sub-floor is decent which it would be if it tile or hardwood then 135 gallons would probably be fine without concern. Perhaps relocating the sump would be a good idea to reduce the load but I really don't see a huge threat. |
#3
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![]() What is the distance from the Foundation wall to LVL ?
And what is 'LVL' ? One thing I see that would make me uncomfortable is it looks like you are asking the plywood sheeting to take the whole load. If this is true, and the tank is not sitting directly on the joists, I'd recommend you sister those joists far enough under the tank so the plywood doesn't deflect and fail. Plus that would take out your tiles ![]() There is a formula for sistering, but I can't find it on the web right now. |
#4
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![]() Yes. the tank will sit on tiles
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The space that is underneath the tank is reserved for another big fowlr tank that I plan for future, so the sump will eventually move down to basement. Therefore i don't want any post underneath the tank My new calculation is from wall to LVL is 17.3 feet. the tank will be 1.8 feet from the wall. And it will be 10 feet long so about 5.5 feet from the LVL Quote:
Here is my latest sketch
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155 gallon bow front Last edited by Coleus; 12-06-2011 at 02:08 AM. |
#5
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![]() Ohhh...I think you're going to be in trouble without reinforcing the plywood since the tank is sitting in between the joists. Just a slight movement will pop those tiles off. Another option is to pull up the tiles that will be under the tank and install them with flexible thinset and sanded silicone grout.
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#6
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![]() Quote:
yeah id have to agree if you were hitting the joists with your tank you would be in a better position(depending on the type of tile/stone and if it was set right) personally i would remove the tiles all together where the tank sits and double up the plywood with 1/4" ply to fill the void or do as doug said and build the stand so its a little bigger than the tank and sits on the joist edit****
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........ Last edited by reefwars; 12-06-2011 at 03:33 AM. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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Thanks for everyone inputs so far, I learned lots of new stuff today
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155 gallon bow front |
#8
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![]() Was thinking of putting a LVL beem with two metal posts
Future for another tank that hook up with the upstairs tank
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155 gallon bow front |
#9
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![]() What about putting two beams, either side of the tank from the foundation wall to the two green verticals. Either with your idea of using steel posts or drilling into foundation wall and installing hangers, the same to the green vertical posts.
Then you can install two or more beams right to left, between these beams with a hanger like the ones used here http://www.ilevel.com/roofs/r_MicrollamLVL_beams.aspx this way, you would not lose too much height in the basement you would use 2x8 or 2x10s (more research needed here. This would only hold up your existing floor joists. As mentioned already this would not support the plywood floor that the tank sits on. |
#10
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![]() can you make the stand for the tank wider then it needs to be?....... it would distribute the weight over a greater area and give you some piece of mind......but really.....135 g over 10' shouldnt be an issue.....especially if the house is new and assuming the framers did the floor properly
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |