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  #1  
Old 12-05-2011, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Coleus View Post



Cheers
what is the space under where you want to put the tank. problem is especialy with tile any deflection will crack the grout and possibly tiles. adding a tank they will realy increase the movment in the joists.

what is the distance from the foundation wall to the wall with the green posts?

if the space under the tank isn't used for anything I would be trmpted to run one or two beams (depending on the span) parallel to the foundation wall to stiffin it right up and minimize any chance of deflection. this may be overkill but better to do it that way then not good enough.

of course this would take 4, 2X10s and 4 jack posts but if the space below the tank isn't use for anything then it is still a fairly cheep option.

weather you need one set or two would depend on the span from the foundation wall to the LVL beam.

Steve
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:53 PM
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Be warned that adding jack posts at random on a basement slab could do more harm than good. Typical basement support posts are placed on pre planned piles to minimize effects from ground expansion. Other areas in the basement don't offer such protection, in you put in a post and jam it tight any movement from the basement slab will transfer to the main floor. The seriousness of it depends on the soil conditions and the foundation but if you have cracks in your slab it's a good sign not to add such support posts.

Best option I think would be to add a beam from green post to green post if possible, however there must be support there already even if it's down the line further. So it's possible you're over thinking this, if your sub-floor is decent which it would be if it tile or hardwood then 135 gallons would probably be fine without concern. Perhaps relocating the sump would be a good idea to reduce the load but I really don't see a huge threat.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:07 AM
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What is the distance from the Foundation wall to LVL ?
And what is 'LVL' ?

One thing I see that would make me uncomfortable is it looks like you are asking the plywood sheeting to take the whole load.
If this is true, and the tank is not sitting directly on the joists, I'd recommend you sister those joists far enough under the tank so the plywood doesn't deflect and fail. Plus that would take out your tiles
There is a formula for sistering, but I can't find it on the web right now.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Is there tile directly under the tank?
Yes. the tank will sit on tiles

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Originally Posted by sphelps View Post
Best option I think would be to add a beam from green post to green post if possible, however there must be support there already even if it's down the line further. So it's possible you're over thinking this, if your sub-floor is decent which it would be if it tile or hardwood then 135 gallons would probably be fine without concern. Perhaps relocating the sump would be a good idea to reduce the load but I really don't see a huge threat.
Please see my new sketch because my memory served me wrong. The beam actually runs from one green post to another green post and it stops at the left green post.

The space that is underneath the tank is reserved for another big fowlr tank that I plan for future, so the sump will eventually move down to basement. Therefore i don't want any post underneath the tank


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Originally Posted by gregzz4 View Post
What is the distance from the Foundation wall to LVL ?
My new calculation is from wall to LVL is 17.3 feet. the tank will be 1.8 feet from the wall. And it will be 10 feet long so about 5.5 feet from the LVL

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Originally Posted by gregzz4 View Post
One thing I see that would make me uncomfortable is it looks like you are asking the plywood sheeting to take the whole load.
If this is true, and the tank is not sitting directly on the joists, I'd recommend you sister those joists far enough under the tank so the plywood doesn't deflect and fail. Plus that would take out your tiles
There is a formula for sistering, but I can't find it on the web right now.
Hmm sistering joints which means i have to move current plumping and heat ducts that are currently between those joints.



Here is my latest sketch
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Last edited by Coleus; 12-06-2011 at 02:08 AM.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coleus View Post
Yes. the tank will sit on tiles
Ohhh...I think you're going to be in trouble without reinforcing the plywood since the tank is sitting in between the joists. Just a slight movement will pop those tiles off. Another option is to pull up the tiles that will be under the tank and install them with flexible thinset and sanded silicone grout.
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Ohhh...I think you're going to be in trouble without reinforcing the plywood since the tank is sitting in between the joists. Just a slight movement will pop those tiles off. Another option is to pull up the tiles that will be under the tank and install them with flexible thinset and sanded silicone grout.


yeah id have to agree if you were hitting the joists with your tank you would be in a better position(depending on the type of tile/stone and if it was set right)

personally i would remove the tiles all together where the tank sits and double up the plywood with 1/4" ply to fill the void or do as doug said and build the stand so its a little bigger than the tank and sits on the joist


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Last edited by reefwars; 12-06-2011 at 03:33 AM.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Another option is to pull up the tiles that will be under the tank and install them with flexible thinset and sanded silicone grout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefwars View Post
personally i would remove the tiles all together where the tank sits and double up the plywood with 1/4" ply to fill the void
I probably will do this. Thanks

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Originally Posted by hillegom View Post
What about putting two beams, either side of the tank from the foundation wall to the two green verticals.
I think i probably has to go this way instead of doing two more post. But then not sure how i am going to move the drain pipe that is currently sitting between 2 joints.




Thanks for everyone inputs so far, I learned lots of new stuff today
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillegom View Post
How long is the yellow, diagonal beam you will put in?
Was thinking of putting a LVL beem with two metal posts

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Originally Posted by StirCrazy View Post
what is the space under where you want to put the tank.

Steve
Future for another tank that hook up with the upstairs tank
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  #9  
Old 12-06-2011, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coleus View Post
Was thinking of putting a LVL beem with two metal posts
What about putting two beams, either side of the tank from the foundation wall to the two green verticals. Either with your idea of using steel posts or drilling into foundation wall and installing hangers, the same to the green vertical posts.
Then you can install two or more beams right to left, between these beams with a hanger like the ones used here
http://www.ilevel.com/roofs/r_MicrollamLVL_beams.aspx
this way, you would not lose too much height in the basement
you would use 2x8 or 2x10s (more research needed here.

This would only hold up your existing floor joists. As mentioned already this would not support the plywood floor that the tank sits on.
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:12 AM
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can you make the stand for the tank wider then it needs to be?....... it would distribute the weight over a greater area and give you some piece of mind......but really.....135 g over 10' shouldnt be an issue.....especially if the house is new and assuming the framers did the floor properly
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