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#1
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![]() Looks great!, the idea for larger holes is good, the larger the hole the less velocity the water will have getting sucked in, meaning it sucks in the least amount of "unwanted" stuff. And also, I've never heard of people saying they have too big of holes drilled in the tank, can always adapt down, can't open them up (easily). Definitely have ball valves and unions on both sides of the motor. Rarely needs to be serviced, but it'll be night and day how things go when you have them.( I don't, it sucks).
I have the exact same setup for a sump, the only thing i would add is a better way to hold filter socks in on the skimmer side. I don't always run them, but they are kinda jammed in there when i do. The other thing is possibly adding a 4th weir to the skimmer side(i imagine will have more flow?), or keep the ATO at the level you have in the pic, which is probably a better idea ![]() I like the dimensions for the display, little more shallow and wide than most, will make a great reef.
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My 150 In Wall Build |
#2
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![]() I didn't even look at your sump design...what are you using the fuge for? Pods or macroalgae culture? I also suggest you do your baffles the other way - first and last one raised up, middle one on the bottom. The baffles don't have to be that tall either. If the water level is 8" make the baffles 10" or so.
Dood, use true union ball valves. Union and ball valve in one. Takes up less space and costs a tad less. Last edited by Myka; 09-21-2011 at 11:08 PM. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
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My 150 In Wall Build |
#4
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![]() k, will do up some new diagrams tonight or tomorrow. The fuge is for both pods and macros...they kinda go together. Where can I find these union valves?...
Mindy, why reverse the baffles? wouldnt that suck any sand or anything outta the fuge area? |
#6
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![]() Any one have a diagram on how to plumb a om 4 way so i have 4 outlets in front and 2 behind the rock work? also, aside from the price, whats the difference between a super squirt and a 4 way?
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