Need opinions on new tank design
 

planning out a new tank I will be setting up next spring. This is my closed loop. Anything anyone would change or add?
The display itself will be 1/2" starfire on front, left and right panels. Standard 1/2 float on the back and a 3/4" bottom. Dual 1.5" dursos in the back corners.
http://www.canreef.com/photopost/upl...losed_loop.jpg
And this would be the 75G sump underneath it.
http://www.canreef.com/photopost/uploads/2017/sump9.jpg

Any input appreciated!

So that's a manifold that will sit where or are those actually drilled in the glass? Is that a top down view or from the side? If that's top down you won't need two valves, just the one ball valve on the intake assuming the intakes are drilled on the bottom of the tank. Sorry, I'm not getting what's going on in your picture.

I personally am not a fan of manifolds. I figure you'd be better off drilling one intake, and 2 or 4 outlets using a 2 or 4 way OM. I like the water movement of that much better. Just my personal preference.

Thanks Myka.
Its a front view. all holes are drilled. The valve and union after the pump is for when the pump gets removed for cleaning, and for any emergencies as the bulkheads are below the waterline. (dont want the lines to drain onto the floor) I want 2 intakes so as to divide the suction, and in case one gets plugged or something. As for the OM, can always add that later on if needed.
Also just found that this pump has a 2" input, not a 1.5" as it says on J&L's site. (have to call them and get them to fix that)

Ah ok, then ya you need the valves then. I would save the money and buy true union ball valves instead of the ones you're picking out. I don't like the returns are the water surface...they won't do much way up there. They would do you more good closer to the sand.

Agree with Mindy. If the water movement is spread all over it would be much better. That's the beauty of a closed loop. If they're all at the surface, most of the movement would get "sucked up" into your overflow.

CL with a OM device to mix things up (one here)

It looks good, but agree that an OM 4 way would do a great job of mixing it up more.

Would suggest larger bulkheads, 2" for suctions and 1" for returns. Also personally would put the CL returns in the base and the suctions on the back. A large advantage with CL is the ability to push water upwards in the tank, IMO not doing so would question why it's there in the first place. You're also wasting your time with a 3/4" base, this is the most supported part of the tank and if anything can be thinner than the front and back. My tank is 12mm on the sides and 10mm on the bottom. You're just adding weight and cost.

Looks great!, the idea for larger holes is good, the larger the hole the less velocity the water will have getting sucked in, meaning it sucks in the least amount of "unwanted" stuff. And also, I've never heard of people saying they have too big of holes drilled in the tank, can always adapt down, can't open them up (easily). Definitely have ball valves and unions on both sides of the motor. Rarely needs to be serviced, but it'll be night and day how things go when you have them.( I don't, it sucks).

I have the exact same setup for a sump, the only thing i would add is a better way to hold filter socks in on the skimmer side. I don't always run them, but they are kinda jammed in there when i do. The other thing is possibly adding a 4th weir to the skimmer side(i imagine will have more flow?), or keep the ATO at the level you have in the pic, which is probably a better idea :D. My 1" waterfall from the skimmer weir into the return section causes lots of micro bubbles.

I like the dimensions for the display, little more shallow and wide than most, will make a great reef.

I didn't even look at your sump design...what are you using the fuge for? Pods or macroalgae culture? I also suggest you do your baffles the other way - first and last one raised up, middle one on the bottom. The baffles don't have to be that tall either. If the water level is 8" make the baffles 10" or so.

Dood, use true union ball valves. Union and ball valve in one. Takes up less space and costs a tad less.