280g Inwall

Delphinus · #1 03-13-2010, 04:15 AM

Yeah, I figure, either I didn't explain it right to the plumber (but I did show him pictures), or, the inspector didn't have a full understanding of what he saw either. I'm trying to extend him the benefit of the doubt about the "It's the end of the day, I dun wanna work no more today" thing but I have to admit it feels like a stretch. He was in and out so fast. It was less than 5 minutes from the time he walked in to the time he walked out. He didn't even really look at the sink. He just glanced at it and said "No."

I did think about calling the city to press this further but yeah, at this point, I just want the darn thing signed off so we can all just move along onto bigger and better things. Like maybe putting water in the tank.

If the second inspection turns out the same, I'm just going to pull the sink out and and say "Oh look at that. No more sink there. NOW please sign this off."

lastlight · #2 03-13-2010, 04:33 AM

poo pipe!

fishytime · #3 03-13-2010, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight

poo pipe!

Geez Brett.....I nearly spit beer on my puter screen

Delphinus · #4 03-15-2010, 11:16 PM

Poo pipe is moved.

I called the city via 311 today and figured, I'm going to get the definitive answer on the code here, and challenge them on the reasoning.

So. Here we go (drum roll please):

Yes, it's code to not allow anything other than clear water to indirectly drain into a floor drain. That means basically the condensation from your A/C, furnace, HRV, etc. ... and that's about it. I suppose RO/DI waste line would suffice as "clear water."

Anything other than that ... nope. MUST be drained directly and vented.

I asked, what about washing machines? Those are indirectly drained .. "That WAS allowed at one time, but not anymore."

So I asked why. This is rich, wait for it.

Soaps and anything else we silly people will dump into a sink drain will sit in the trap of the floor drain and begin to smell. That's when us silly people call the city to complain about our drains smelling of sewer, and they come check it out, and then find out that that it was just the stinky water in the drain trap. So no more will that petulant nonsense be allowed.

Wish I were making this up.

banditpowdercoat · #5 03-15-2010, 11:20 PM

Ohh I see. They change the code so THEY don;t have as much work to do... That is SO nice of them

Delphinus · #6 03-15-2010, 11:39 PM

So my lesson learned after moving the poo pipe was that jackhammering concrete isn't all THAT bad, although if one was to do it near a tank they should put up a blast sheild because concrete debris was flying everywhere.

But I think about how it is to cut a linear length of pipe and insert a T fitting into it. You cut the pipe, move the cut pieces apart so that you can wrestle the fitting into it, and then jam the pieces back together. How do you do that when the upstream and downstream sections are still underground? They'll have absolutely no wiggle room... or you'd have to jackhammer the whole pipe out to the endpoint and relay it all the way to the end again.

No thanks.

One laundry sink coming right out of my basement.... guess my 4 piece plumbing permit just became a 3 piece.

banditpowdercoat · #7 03-15-2010, 11:55 PM

it is a PITA to put a T in existing. basically ya you got to hammer out a bunch. BUT, you can get rubber pipe couplings that are sealed with hose clamps. It doesnt need to be the regular PVC joints. So with the rubber couplings on either end, you cut out a section, slide the couplings on either end, set back in place and slide couplings up over the pipe. Not as bad as you think

these are what I'm talking about

Pazil · #8 03-16-2010, 03:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delphinus

So my lesson learned after moving the poo pipe was that jackhammering concrete isn't all THAT bad, although if one was to do it near a tank they should put up a blast sheild because concrete debris was flying everywhere.

But I think about how it is to cut a linear length of pipe and insert a T fitting into it. You cut the pipe, move the cut pieces apart so that you can wrestle the fitting into it, and then jam the pieces back together. How do you do that when the upstream and downstream sections are still underground? They'll have absolutely no wiggle room... or you'd have to jackhammer the whole pipe out to the endpoint and relay it all the way to the end again.

No thanks.

One laundry sink coming right out of my basement.... guess my 4 piece plumbing permit just became a 3 piece.

Tony the fittings for a 3 or 4" pipe usually have a 1" flang on either end.... Just cut the opening for the new tee about 1" shorter than the tee itself and slide the tee all the way to one side and then back on to the other side. You will end up with 1/2" insert on both sides.