Humidifier Float Valve

[sphelps]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

what does not make sence? I think I'm being clear? I made last post before I seen his last ones

Most of it, but don't take it personally. All RO units should have an auto shut off unless they are the portable units which are only hocked up to a water source when needed. I wouldn't say that's the norm most units are permanently hooked up to a water source and the shut off valve is on the output. This being the case it will require an auto shut off whether a pressure storage tank is used or not.

The basic rule is to never rely on mechanical floats. I believe humidifiers have a drain if the water level gets too high, same as a toilet. Electronic systems can be designed with unlimited safety systems to prevent failure so you actually design them to meet your own personal confidence level.

[viperfish]

Originally Posted by sphelps

The basic rule is to never rely on mechanical floats. I believe humidifiers have a drain if the water level gets too high, same as a toilet.

Most older humidifiers have a float valve and pan to hold water, the only drain is the one on the floor when it overflows. The mechanical float valves on these units last for years without fail. In my previous house the float valve had been working for 11 years and had not spilled a drop. The key to these things is simplicity. In my current humidifier I have an electronic solenoid and it took three of them before I got one that worked properly. I don't know of too many electronic devices, especially ones controlling water, that I would trust for 10+ years.

[banditpowdercoat]

Well, I have just seen more of the temp hookup style RO units in this hobby than the permanent, drinking water kind.

[Delphinus]

I still use on one of my sump's the first float valve I ever bought for a tank more than ten years ago. It's been in continuous use as an ATO in the last ten years without a single failure. Best $8 I ever spent in the hobby. I bet most $200 switch and pump style ATO's cannot claim that kind of uptime yet. Sometimes simplicity is just fine.

[whatcaneyedo]

I also have one on a brute trash can with a ball valve right before it. After a water change I let it fill up to the float valve and then turn off the ball valve as an extra precaution.

I have a friend in town who flooded his basement twice using one of these in much the same way. I dont know the full story about how it happened but I think he just had it mounted too loose or the float wasnt inserted correctly. Water on the floor sensors are always a good idea and check your installation to make sure it works before turning the water on and leaving for the day...

[banditpowdercoat]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

I still use on one of my sump's the first float valve I ever bought for a tank more than ten years ago. It's been in continuous use as an ATO in the last ten years without a single failure. Best $8 I ever spent in the hobby. I bet most $200 switch and pump style ATO's cannot claim that kind of uptime yet. Sometimes simplicity is just fine.

I'm seriously thinking about this for my next sump. But I got 2 FW tanks I use the RO water for too. Maybe when I finally get rid of them? How did you mount? Did you drill through sump? I'd like to be able to add it after. Glass sump, don;t want to remove to add a hole

[mark]

living on the edge here.

I have a furnace humidifier float valve in my sump connected directly to my ro/di for a ATO for the last 4-5 years, zero problems.

What let's me sleep is there's many more furnaces out there than fish tanks and in all my years never come across it myself or heard from someone their basement flooded due the humidifier. I've had a problem once on a old furnace with the valve not opening from deposits. Figure here I'm running about 2g a day of ro/di through it, it's flushing itself.

Now would not use one on a kalk drip system.

[superduperwesman]

Originally Posted by mark

living on the edge here.

I have a furnace humidifier float valve in my sump connected directly to my ro/di for a ATO for the last 4-5 years, zero problems.

What let's me sleep is there's many more furnaces out there than fish tanks and in all my years never come across it myself or heard from someone their basement flooded due the humidifier. I've had a problem once on a old furnace with the valve not opening from deposits. Figure here I'm running about 2g a day of ro/di through it, it's flushing itself.

Now would not use one on a kalk drip system.

That's the one. Yeah i just drilled a hole in the can. So based on everyone's experience I think I'll be good

Glad I heard about this. Really great item

[sphelps]

Well I guess some of you guys enjoy living on the edge a little . Even with an old humidifier without an overflow drain, if failure occurs it still spills down close to a floor drain so no damage is done. Also keep in mind that a fish tanks isn't exactly the same as a humidifier. In the tank environment it's much more vulnerable since it isn't as clean and things can jam it up or stop it from closing.

Simplicity is better as a rule of thumb within reason (a car is still better than a horse) but mechanical floats do fail so I think it'd be pretty foolish to hook up one to an actual aquarium from an unlimited water source, if you've got a separate container for top off which wouldn't harm the tank if it was all introduced that's fine but a direct RO hook up is an accident waiting to happen. A solenoid and a timer can be easily setup for less than $100 which is very cheap insurance considering what has already been invested.

[Delphinus]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

I'm seriously thinking about this for my next sump. But I got 2 FW tanks I use the RO water for too. Maybe when I finally get rid of them? How did you mount? Did you drill through sump? I'd like to be able to add it after. Glass sump, don;t want to remove to add a hole

Yeah, just a 1/2" hole through the glass and done. I'm liking Mark's slotted idea in the corner of the sump for adjustability though - probably pretty easy to set up with some acrylic and a router or worst case scenario some glass slats siliconed together (I don't have a router so just thinking out loud how I'd go about doing it myself..)

Mark, I don't know how you're not burning through RO membranes like that.. but hey, if it works, it works. I myself found out the hard way to use a reservoir first .. but we all know the laws of physics are totally different up there in E-town than down here so that must be it.