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Old 02-11-2010, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sphelps View Post
Your RO has an auto shut off, just ignore that post. It doesn't make sense to me either.
what does not make sence? I think I'm being clear? I made last post before I seen his last ones

But yes, now that he says he has a Pressure tank RO, he allready has a shutoff installed on the RO system.
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:44 PM
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You do not have to have a tank in your RO system to have an auto shut off valve (ASOV)
Most systems come with this valve so that the unit shuts itself off and does not make any more ro water nor any more water to the drain.
Here is a link, for a picture, there are a lot of pics on the web.
http://www.goodwaterwarehouse.com/cat/6_roasv.shtml
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillegom View Post
You do not have to have a tank in your RO system to have an auto shut off valve (ASOV)
Most systems come with this valve so that the unit shuts itself off and does not make any more ro water nor any more water to the drain.
Here is a link, for a picture, there are a lot of pics on the web.
http://www.goodwaterwarehouse.com/cat/6_roasv.shtml
Oh ok... thanks. I'll look for this when I get home... like I said. I don't actually have it all plumbed in yet I was just trying the float valve out on the R/O supply line that I ran. I'm gonna pick up my R/O from my old place this weekend.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:01 PM
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No extra protection on the humidifiers and if you think about it household pressure is anywhere from 50 to 100psi typically.. think the biggest problem tends to be calcium buildup over time.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat View Post
what does not make sence? I think I'm being clear? I made last post before I seen his last ones
Most of it, but don't take it personally. All RO units should have an auto shut off unless they are the portable units which are only hocked up to a water source when needed. I wouldn't say that's the norm most units are permanently hooked up to a water source and the shut off valve is on the output. This being the case it will require an auto shut off whether a pressure storage tank is used or not.

The basic rule is to never rely on mechanical floats. I believe humidifiers have a drain if the water level gets too high, same as a toilet. Electronic systems can be designed with unlimited safety systems to prevent failure so you actually design them to meet your own personal confidence level.

Last edited by sphelps; 02-11-2010 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sphelps View Post
The basic rule is to never rely on mechanical floats. I believe humidifiers have a drain if the water level gets too high, same as a toilet.
Most older humidifiers have a float valve and pan to hold water, the only drain is the one on the floor when it overflows. The mechanical float valves on these units last for years without fail. In my previous house the float valve had been working for 11 years and had not spilled a drop. The key to these things is simplicity. In my current humidifier I have an electronic solenoid and it took three of them before I got one that worked properly. I don't know of too many electronic devices, especially ones controlling water, that I would trust for 10+ years.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:42 PM
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Well, I have just seen more of the temp hookup style RO units in this hobby than the permanent, drinking water kind.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:52 PM
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I still use on one of my sump's the first float valve I ever bought for a tank more than ten years ago. It's been in continuous use as an ATO in the last ten years without a single failure. Best $8 I ever spent in the hobby. I bet most $200 switch and pump style ATO's cannot claim that kind of uptime yet. Sometimes simplicity is just fine.
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:08 PM
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I also have one on a brute trash can with a ball valve right before it. After a water change I let it fill up to the float valve and then turn off the ball valve as an extra precaution.

I have a friend in town who flooded his basement twice using one of these in much the same way. I dont know the full story about how it happened but I think he just had it mounted too loose or the float wasnt inserted correctly. Water on the floor sensors are always a good idea and check your installation to make sure it works before turning the water on and leaving for the day...
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  #10  
Old 02-11-2010, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphinus View Post
I still use on one of my sump's the first float valve I ever bought for a tank more than ten years ago. It's been in continuous use as an ATO in the last ten years without a single failure. Best $8 I ever spent in the hobby. I bet most $200 switch and pump style ATO's cannot claim that kind of uptime yet. Sometimes simplicity is just fine.
I'm seriously thinking about this for my next sump. But I got 2 FW tanks I use the RO water for too. Maybe when I finally get rid of them? How did you mount? Did you drill through sump? I'd like to be able to add it after. Glass sump, don;t want to remove to add a hole
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