sps, at what point do you give up and throw it away?

[Atomikk]

Usually if algae grows on the 'body' of the coral, it means it is dead. Regular algae will never grow on a healthy piece of sps body.

SPS corals have a sweet smell to them that distinguishes them from being dead. Well, this 'sweet' smell is really subjective at this point

[globaldesigns]

I agree with Atomikk, if the skeleton of the coral is growing algae or turning green, it is dead.


I like everyone else has lost sps. I have lost my share and spent many hundreds/thousands on SPS frags and colonies... All I can suggest is make sure you have the following:

1.) Proper Parameters for all parameters and elements (this also means MG, ST, Pottassium, and so on)
2.) Good Skimmer(s), to help keep your water prestine, too much nutrients = nice brown corals... Not Dead, but who likes Brown.
3.) Keep up with your water changes
4.) Good Flow... You don't want to pummle your coral with flow, but in the wild they are use to good currents, you need to try and recreate the best you can this process
5.) Good Lighting - This is very important... I personally use MH and suggest minimum of 250W (I use this), but others say going up to 400W is even better. Depending on tank size and depth, you need to use proper lighting!!!

There is probably more, but I can't think of anything, please others add to this list.

I hope this helps,

Rick

[burgerchow]

Originally Posted by globaldesigns

I agree with Atomikk, if the skeleton of the coral is growing algae or turning green, it is dead.


I like everyone else has lost sps. I have lost my share and spent many hundreds/thousands on SPS frags and colonies... All I can suggest is make sure you have the following:

1.) Proper Parameters for all parameters and elements (this also means MG, ST, Pottassium, and so on)
2.) Good Skimmer(s), to help keep your water prestine, too much nutrients = nice brown corals... Not Dead, but who likes Brown.
3.) Keep up with your water changes
4.) Good Flow... You don't want to pummle your coral with flow, but in the wild they are use to good currents, you need to try and recreate the best you can this process
5.) Good Lighting - This is very important... I personally use MH and suggest minimum of 250W (I use this), but others say going up to 400W is even better. Depending on tank size and depth, you need to use proper lighting!!!

There is probably more, but I can't think of anything, please others add to this list.

I hope this helps,

Rick

Thanks for all the info everyone. The acro in question has gone mostly white on the upper 2/3rds. Funny enough, no algae has taken a foothold on it. I don't think it made it during a 4 day blackout when I was battling dinos. ( complete darkness for 4.5 days. Motorcycle covers work great for covering a tank ) All my other corals survived and I wiped out the dinos.

water parameters should be pristine.

120 gal display with 50 gal sump
2x koralia 4s plus one Vortech mp40 set on wavemaking mode
coralife aqualight pro 2x250 mh 10,000 ks
vertex 180 skimmer
140 lbs live rock with 2 percs, christmas wrasse, flame angel, naso tang, royal gramma and foxface.

I'm going to see Anthony in a couple days to pick up more frags. Just wondering if I should throw this one away or if there might be a chance it might come back.

[fkshiu]

Never give up on a coral not matter what! Picked up a superman digi and it didn't do well at all in my tank. Went completely bleached and became encrusted with algae and crap. I just left it in its place because I was both too lazy and ****ed off to remove it. A few weeks later I noticed a few red polyps peeking out from under some algae. This live area is now spreading slowly but surely to cover about one-third of the previously dead skeleton <knock on wood>.