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#1
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![]() Absolutely not. I had a small colony that was completely white with no polyps for months. I couldn't reach it, so left it in the tank. 4 months later it started coming back, and at 6 months was an awesome little blue colony.
Sure way to tell, remove it from the tank and smell it, acros have a pungent smell if they have tissue. Dead have no smell at all.
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Brad |
#2
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![]() Quote:
I give up up and throw it away when the coral is white and shows no polyps, that to me = dead. ![]() |
#3
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![]() haha, yes, throwing it away almost certainly means it's dead, or will be shortly. But the smell test is 100%, if it smells like acro, it's got potential. I've had several return from death, and several not, but as long as there is tissue (smell it) it stays in the tank.
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Brad |
#4
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![]() I have the same concern, I have about 5 frags that my coral beauty (for sale btw) nipped the polyps off, but the stems are still a very vibrant color. I think thats what we're trying to find out wether they will recover from that.
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"what do you mean you need another tank??" |
#5
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![]() i wait until the entire skeletal structure has encrusted with various algaes.. then I call it in. I have one "colony" that RTN'ed down to two polyps and its immediate surrounding tissue. There's probably no more than 5mm worth of tissue around the polyps and it has been like this for a month now
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#6
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![]() i also hold off on the chucking until the coral is white and starting to host various algae and growths
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#7
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![]() Usually if algae grows on the 'body' of the coral, it means it is dead. Regular algae will never grow on a healthy piece of sps body.
SPS corals have a sweet smell to them that distinguishes them from being dead. Well, this 'sweet' smell is really subjective at this point ![]() |
#8
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![]() I agree with Atomikk, if the skeleton of the coral is growing algae or turning green, it is dead.
I like everyone else has lost sps. I have lost my share and spent many hundreds/thousands on SPS frags and colonies... All I can suggest is make sure you have the following: 1.) Proper Parameters for all parameters and elements (this also means MG, ST, Pottassium, and so on) 2.) Good Skimmer(s), to help keep your water prestine, too much nutrients = nice brown corals... Not Dead, but who likes Brown. 3.) Keep up with your water changes 4.) Good Flow... You don't want to pummle your coral with flow, but in the wild they are use to good currents, you need to try and recreate the best you can this process 5.) Good Lighting - This is very important... I personally use MH and suggest minimum of 250W (I use this), but others say going up to 400W is even better. Depending on tank size and depth, you need to use proper lighting!!! There is probably more, but I can't think of anything, please others add to this list. I hope this helps, Rick
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |