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#1
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__________________
SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |
#2
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![]() This would make a great discussion.
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#3
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![]() Teeth not good? All the aquariums you buy with built in overflows that I have seen,have slots.
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#4
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![]() Yes they do.. why?
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#5
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Overflows that have a return line or other flow interfere with the surface tension (flow directed near, or away from the overflow) near the overflow cause it to draw water from lower down. You can do a flake food test on some overflows and see water (& flakes) pulled into the overflow box from straight down. Return lines from the sump should be located at the surface at one end with the overflow box in the opposing end or corner (depending on aesthetics). Centre overflow boxes are less efficient and promote dead spots. Water should flow straight across the surface mixing with old water and flow directly into the overflow box taking with it anything on the surface. This system discourages back siphoning with the sump return and provides superior surface swirl and subsequent ripples if you have metal halide lighting. Tanks typically come with teeth because aquarium manufacturers don't like change. A single slot is cheaper, stronger and easier to build, but tank manufacturers are slow to change. Most of them still use wet/dry filters oversized drains (allowing air and flushing issues) and one pump systems. In the case of a coast to coast style overflow, teeth make even less sense because the water depth at the edge isn't deep enough to attract fish to swim over it. |
#6
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They do use less power than any closed loop pump currently on the market, but the flow rates they have been designated are not the true values of the water they move. They also deliver volume and very little pressure. A pressure rated pump moves X amount of water plus all the other water it picks up and displaces as it travels across the tank. It's kind of a domino effect. If you were to add a dye to the effluent of the Vortech you would see less of it spread across the tank than what you would see with a typical closed loop pump. Most of the closed loop effluents I use point up from the bottom to keep detritus suspended and to move dead water from lower regions to the air/water interface at the surface for gas exchange (oxygenation). Vortechs are only suitable for end to end flow, and they do it well. Closed loop pumps draw in as much water as they put out. So do Vortechs, but the water intake doesn't have any impact on flow dynamics and flow is more turbulent (pumping into walls, rocks & opposing flow) than laminar (circular or rolling effect) without losing velocity due to friction or diffusion. Typical powerhead set-ups direct water at the reef structure. This is not how it works on natural reefs. Water should change direction to offer suspended food from all angles. Good flow creates a snow globe effect. Chaotic flow with poorly placed powerheads drives detritus into reef structures and the sand bed. A Sequence Dart pump uses 135 watts, and I pay $0.11 per Kw/h in Toronto including all of the extraneous charges. That comes to less than $11 per month if it runs 24hrs a day. If you can find a more efficient pump that truly moves the same amount of water (3600GPH) at half the wattage then you save $5.50 per month. A savings is a savings, but $5.00 isn't enough to tip the scale much. I don't have much experience with prop powerheads like the Vortech but they look like they will claim the occasional invert or fish. They also require regular cleaning that you don't need with closed loop systems. I find that drilling out rocks with a diamond bit or covering PVC ports with concrete or epoxy & aragonite makes them invisible in the tank. I'm trying to get away from swiss cheese tanks with multiple holes to keep costs and liability down. As long as you hide the pipes there's nothing wrong with running them over the top of the tank. You trim $1000 off of the cost of a big tank (no tempering or hole charges), production time is cut in half, and you save on bulkhead and valve costs. This brings the cost down to less than a comparable system with powerheads. |
#7
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http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/10/review Quote:
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__________________
SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" Last edited by Canadian; 10-16-2009 at 02:56 PM. |
#8
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![]() We are not really talking apples to apples here, both vortech and tunze claim flow numbers that becomes converted to gallons per hour of flow.
I would not argue their claims in the slightest, but just for a second could you answer me one simple question, if a vortech or tunze produce 3000- gph of flow , and you throttle back a dart to produce 3000 gph would the result be the same? |
#9
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#10
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![]() That wasn't what I asked, so I will rephrase, if I throttle back a Dart to 3000 gph and make the outputs disperse similar to a tunze or vortech would they be similar?
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