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  #1  
Old 08-03-2009, 11:39 PM
Eb0la11 Eb0la11 is offline
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So do you think its the 6" pocket of air between the check valve and the pump is the problem? I have no real way that I can think of to get water into that 6" of pipe. Ideas?
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:46 PM
intarsiabox intarsiabox is offline
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It "might" be the problem. I have never had a submersable airlock on me personally as usually the head pressure in your sump is enough to fill your pump up. You may have to invest in a couple of unions and a spacer to find out though.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:08 AM
Eb0la11 Eb0la11 is offline
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ya Im gonna go to the store tomorrow and get just a straight pipe to see if the pump can do it when the check valve isnt there creating that air lock. I'll probably pick up a new check valve just for peace of mind too. I'll update here or in my build thread.
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:27 AM
golf nut golf nut is offline
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How are you plumbing the return pump that demands the need for a check valve?
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:41 AM
Eb0la11 Eb0la11 is offline
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The biggest reason I want the check valve is because I have a 30 gallon sump that has its compartments set up to use up 25 of the 30G, roughly, when running normally. So if ever the power went off the return lines and the overflow box would drain into the sump. I have estimated this to be around 20-25G and so that'd mean 15-20G on my floor if the power did go out.

The return is a 3/4" manifold that splits into four 1/2" returns.
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eb0la11 View Post
I have estimated this to be around 20-25G and so that'd mean 15-20G on my floor if the power did go out.
as check valves aren't 100% (they'll get debris or buildup on the seats that will allow them to leak) that could be quite the mess.

Anyway you could raise you return?
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:42 AM
hillegom hillegom is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark View Post
as check valves aren't 100% (they'll get debris or buildup on the seats that will allow them to leak) that could be quite the mess.

Anyway you could raise you return?
+1
I would not rely on a check valve. Remember Murphys law
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:45 AM
Eb0la11 Eb0la11 is offline
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My return holes are drilled at the highest point possible. Ive said it my build thread that 15-20G on my floor wouldnt really be the end of the world. Im in a basement thats unfinished so it wouldnt really do much damage. I already had some from my FW tank leak when one of my o-rings wasnt tight on my pumps when I moved to this new place. No biggie, but itd be nice to have a flood proof tank.

I got a backup plan anyways if this check valve doesnt work by the end of tomorrow for an emergency empty reservoir that I could plumb off my sump through the, right now, plugged holes drilled in the back that are a bit above my chambers.
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  #9  
Old 08-08-2009, 06:09 AM
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Glad you figured it all out! By the way, why don't you keep all these questions in the build thread? Hehe. I'm not saying you can't make a separate thread but to me it seems like it would be great to see it all unfold, the good the bad and the ugly all in one place for easy future reference for yourself and others. Just my two cents :-)
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:47 AM
Eb0la11 Eb0la11 is offline
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Ya, sometimes I just want broader opinions and I know not everyone is reading my build thread. So more generic questions I sometimes post here. It all depends. I usually at least update in the build thread problems and solutions but sometimes the process is thought out in these separate threads.

The needle wheel is in my skimmer, yes. I have a separate pump that pumps water from my sump to my skimmer, through the needle wheel and then drains back into my sump. Its an out of sump model.
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