Return pump priming needed?

[Eb0la11]

ya Im gonna go to the store tomorrow and get just a straight pipe to see if the pump can do it when the check valve isnt there creating that air lock. I'll probably pick up a new check valve just for peace of mind too. I'll update here or in my build thread.

[golf nut]

How are you plumbing the return pump that demands the need for a check valve?

[Eb0la11]

The biggest reason I want the check valve is because I have a 30 gallon sump that has its compartments set up to use up 25 of the 30G, roughly, when running normally. So if ever the power went off the return lines and the overflow box would drain into the sump. I have estimated this to be around 20-25G and so that'd mean 15-20G on my floor if the power did go out.

The return is a 3/4" manifold that splits into four 1/2" returns.

[mark]

Originally Posted by Eb0la11

I have estimated this to be around 20-25G and so that'd mean 15-20G on my floor if the power did go out.

as check valves aren't 100% (they'll get debris or buildup on the seats that will allow them to leak) that could be quite the mess.

Anyway you could raise you return?

[hillegom]

Originally Posted by mark

as check valves aren't 100% (they'll get debris or buildup on the seats that will allow them to leak) that could be quite the mess.

Anyway you could raise you return?

+1
I would not rely on a check valve. Remember Murphys law

[Eb0la11]

My return holes are drilled at the highest point possible. Ive said it my build thread that 15-20G on my floor wouldnt really be the end of the world. Im in a basement thats unfinished so it wouldnt really do much damage. I already had some from my FW tank leak when one of my o-rings wasnt tight on my pumps when I moved to this new place. No biggie, but itd be nice to have a flood proof tank.

I got a backup plan anyways if this check valve doesnt work by the end of tomorrow for an emergency empty reservoir that I could plumb off my sump through the, right now, plugged holes drilled in the back that are a bit above my chambers.

[ALBERTA REEF]

I took a look at your thread build. I think your pump is too small for your plumming. My thinking your flow was bare mine from the outlet. By adding the check valve choked it some more. Try turning off three of your return feeds and see what happens.There is a head chart on Reef Central.

http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php

[Eb0la11]

Yeah it was a spring loaded check valve that required too much force than my pump could supply to open... I've replaced it with a swing type check valve that needs a whole lot less force to swing open.

I tried the closing 3 valves to my returns and it still didnt work, but thats all beside the point now since my system works well, at least the return aspect so far.

Now I am fine tuning my drain. I have to re-plumb my 'T' off to my refugium and thats where Im at now. I got the parts but gotta cut into my pipe a bit to fix it.

My next problem after that is my needle wheel pump for some reason is not starting when I plug it in. Ive tested it before and its worked everytime so this is bizarre why it wont work now. Its been a bit finicky at worst but hasnt ever plain not started so Im not sure whats wrong.

Suggestions?

[ALBERTA REEF]

Is the needle wheel pump is used for the return, usual they are used for skimmers. I still think your pump is still to small of a head height. It runs but does not have enough to get it there. A vane tip pump is better for returns. Hear is a though I have a mag 24 (2400gph) we can plum in to see.

[kien]

Glad you figured it all out! By the way, why don't you keep all these questions in the build thread? Hehe. I'm not saying you can't make a separate thread but to me it seems like it would be great to see it all unfold, the good the bad and the ugly all in one place for easy future reference for yourself and others. Just my two cents :-)