Eb0la11's 165G Reef Tank Build - Page 4

lastlight · #31 07-23-2009, 09:44 PM

the barb ends of the 90s and straight adapters they make are the exact same size as the eheim outputs. I was happy to discover them and put back the $20 in pvc that I had collected to create an equivalent adapter at HD.

Eb0la11 · #32 07-30-2009, 09:46 PM

Ok Ive made a lot of progress on my plumbing. I got 99% of the parts and I know this because they are all roughed in right now and I believe I just need two more male 3/4" streets or whatever its called and then I think I have everything.

Plumbing this sucker is difficult only because I cant mount to the metal frame at all. So I've made a bit of a wood skeleton that will hang over my sump and support the piping further. I'll also build a shelf for my ballasts I think too.

I'll post some pics soon.

Only question Ive really come across is how the heck do you tighten your threaded streets into your bulkheads easily? I got them pretty tight. Tight enough that I feel like I could fill it and have a strong chance it wont leak, but I just know I could get it a bit tighter some how but it just keeps spinning mostly cause I dont have a wrench big enough to hold the 2" bulkhead flange.

Anyways, I think theres a reasonably strong chance I'll be filling this sucker this weekend.

Eb0la11 · #33 08-03-2009, 05:45 AM

Alright I have made more progress. I've hooked up and glued all the plumbing and everything and filled the tank today. Turns out I cracked one bulkhead and it was leaking but other than that its pretty good. I got a new part and will hook it up tomorrow and fire up the system again.

If its 100% leak proof I'll probably run it with regular water for at least half a day or full day and then fill it with RODI. Perhaps next weekend we can mix up the salt and get the live rock in that we have and order more that we need.

My camera is really making me frustrated. It says memory card full but then I go to delete pictures and it says no pictures or videos to display. Im so confused....

fishytime · #34 08-03-2009, 03:14 PM

Isnt technology wonderful?

Eb0la11 · #35 08-03-2009, 06:16 PM

Ya, I wish I could post pictures. I think I've got a pretty good setup going for my first ever SW tank. Ive learned a fair bit from FW but this thing kicks the crap out of my FW 120G.

Ok so the next problem Im facing is getting enough power to run this sucker. I am pretty much positive that a 50 inch tv, 120G FW aquarium and 165G Reef tank cant all run on the same circuit and so I need to run a new circuit that I'm going to dedicate just to the SW aquarium.

So, im not electrician but am tempted to DIY. I'm not a retard though and I'd ask my electrician friends how to do it since one of them lives out of town and the other never seems to be around to help.

So... anyone know how to change a regular receptical to a GCFI (that would also be done for the 120G and then install a completely new circuit off my breaker? I think I'd need to run it maybe 15 feet all through an unfinished basement so it'd be super easy. Im thinking 20 amp instead of 15 though just so I never have issues? Whats step 1? What parts do I need etc lol

Eb0la11 · #36 08-04-2009, 11:41 PM

Ok guys here is my latest update with pictures! I finally got my camera to take a few shots but I need to get a new card. This one only holds 32Mb which is like 3 high quality pics...

So, here is the first shot. This one is a half tank shot of the frame I had to build under my metal stand to support pipes and act as a shelf for my ballasts. It also shows the returns and lock line that I have on the inside of the tank on all 4 return lines.

Next we have a view of the plumbing of the sump from the front view of the tank. I am relatively pleased with the design. Ive had to make minor alterations, such as with my check valve already and the way I designed it to come apart made the swap pretty easy. I would have maybe planned my sump a bit different the second time around but so far it seems to be working not bad. Sorry for all the cords laying around. I'll be tidying those up once my system is running to perfection.

Next we have a shot of the plumbing from the left side of the tank. Looks more cluttered on this side but its not bad. Ive managed to fit it all under half of my tank, so the right side of under the tank will house a QT tank, a reservoir for an ATO unit and most likely another bucket or something that will act as an emergency reserve.

Lastly we have a look at the valves that are above the shelf away from the piping below the shelf for easy access. I had to have a couple 90s in my return lines because finding a y 3/4" to 1/2" reducer was impossible. Ive got great flow through them though, so I am happy.

So, now I have run the tank and it works about 90% the exact way I wanted it to. The only two minor problems Im having are:

1.) My needle wheel pump for my skimmer for some reason is not starting. I cant figure it out. I plugged it in for a second before the skimmer was full of water, but it didnt even turn on during that moment and its had a history of not starting when I tested it outside so I dont think this event has anything to do with it, but it might. I'll try to get it going one way or another. I might have to take it apart again. Oh the joys of used equipment...

2.) This problem I'll probably need some suggestions from you all. As you can see in picture number 3 I have T'd off my refugium line from the 2" drains. This has been somewhat awkward to say the least and I might cut into this line and replumb this because whats happening is very little water is actually making it through the T. I didnt want much, but theres not much more than a trickle and thats not enough. Any tips to starting a fussy pump? It hasnt ever had problems stopping running once running, just seems like it needed a little bang to get going sometimes. Kind of annoying...

Whats the best way to plumb this in? Right now all its doing basically is acting as a spot for air to enter the system and cause a ton of gurgling even if I only just barely crack the valve. Im thinking about cutting that part out entirely and having my emergency drain run into the refugium instead. I think the chances of my emergency drain actually ever taking the whole load of water is slim to none since I have my filter covers on the intake lines for both drains and also egg crate in front of my overflow and so this amount of water would be almost perfect. What do you guys think?

Eb0la11 · #37 08-06-2009, 03:12 AM

For some reason just edited my last post instead of new one so wanted to bump the thread. New pics above.

Myka · #38 08-06-2009, 03:22 AM

Looks good! Do you have enough room in your sump for backflow during a power outage?

kien · #39 08-06-2009, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eb0la11

Whats the best way to plumb this in?

personally, what I would do is cut it out and replumb it, except this time add a valve to the outtake of the main drain as well. This way you can close the valve to restrict the flow into the main chamber, thus forcing more water through the 'T' and into the other chamber. The valve has to go after the 'T' though.

Another thing you can do (that also requires replumbing), is right after the 90 degree at the top as fit falls down, put a 'T' there, and then at each end of the 'T' have a valve and then one side of the 'T' going into one chamber, and the other side of the 'T' going into the other chamber.

I think that whatever you do, you are going to want to put two valves in, one for each chamber, this way you can restrict the flow to one or the other chamber, thus forcing more water into one, or the other chamber.

kien · #40 08-06-2009, 03:41 AM

Another option is to, again, cut out that section where the 90 degree drops into the sump. Replace the 90 degree with a 'T'. Have stem part of the 'T' drop down with a valve, and then the other part of the 'T' run a little further, then with a 90 degree, then valve into the second chamber. Or a valve right away out of the 'T' and a 90 into sump.