Eb0la11's 165G Reef Tank Build

[Eb0la11]

Ok guys here is my latest update with pictures! I finally got my camera to take a few shots but I need to get a new card. This one only holds 32Mb which is like 3 high quality pics...

So, here is the first shot. This one is a half tank shot of the frame I had to build under my metal stand to support pipes and act as a shelf for my ballasts. It also shows the returns and lock line that I have on the inside of the tank on all 4 return lines.


Next we have a view of the plumbing of the sump from the front view of the tank. I am relatively pleased with the design. Ive had to make minor alterations, such as with my check valve already and the way I designed it to come apart made the swap pretty easy. I would have maybe planned my sump a bit different the second time around but so far it seems to be working not bad. Sorry for all the cords laying around. I'll be tidying those up once my system is running to perfection.


Next we have a shot of the plumbing from the left side of the tank. Looks more cluttered on this side but its not bad. Ive managed to fit it all under half of my tank, so the right side of under the tank will house a QT tank, a reservoir for an ATO unit and most likely another bucket or something that will act as an emergency reserve.


Lastly we have a look at the valves that are above the shelf away from the piping below the shelf for easy access. I had to have a couple 90s in my return lines because finding a y 3/4" to 1/2" reducer was impossible. Ive got great flow through them though, so I am happy.


So, now I have run the tank and it works about 90% the exact way I wanted it to. The only two minor problems Im having are:

1.) My needle wheel pump for my skimmer for some reason is not starting. I cant figure it out. I plugged it in for a second before the skimmer was full of water, but it didnt even turn on during that moment and its had a history of not starting when I tested it outside so I dont think this event has anything to do with it, but it might. I'll try to get it going one way or another. I might have to take it apart again. Oh the joys of used equipment...

2.) This problem I'll probably need some suggestions from you all. As you can see in picture number 3 I have T'd off my refugium line from the 2" drains. This has been somewhat awkward to say the least and I might cut into this line and replumb this because whats happening is very little water is actually making it through the T. I didnt want much, but theres not much more than a trickle and thats not enough. Any tips to starting a fussy pump? It hasnt ever had problems stopping running once running, just seems like it needed a little bang to get going sometimes. Kind of annoying...

Whats the best way to plumb this in? Right now all its doing basically is acting as a spot for air to enter the system and cause a ton of gurgling even if I only just barely crack the valve. Im thinking about cutting that part out entirely and having my emergency drain run into the refugium instead. I think the chances of my emergency drain actually ever taking the whole load of water is slim to none since I have my filter covers on the intake lines for both drains and also egg crate in front of my overflow and so this amount of water would be almost perfect. What do you guys think?

[Eb0la11]

For some reason just edited my last post instead of new one so wanted to bump the thread. New pics above.

[Myka]

Looks good! Do you have enough room in your sump for backflow during a power outage?

[kien]

Originally Posted by Eb0la11

Whats the best way to plumb this in?

personally, what I would do is cut it out and replumb it, except this time add a valve to the outtake of the main drain as well. This way you can close the valve to restrict the flow into the main chamber, thus forcing more water through the 'T' and into the other chamber. The valve has to go after the 'T' though.

Another thing you can do (that also requires replumbing), is right after the 90 degree at the top as fit falls down, put a 'T' there, and then at each end of the 'T' have a valve and then one side of the 'T' going into one chamber, and the other side of the 'T' going into the other chamber.

I think that whatever you do, you are going to want to put two valves in, one for each chamber, this way you can restrict the flow to one or the other chamber, thus forcing more water into one, or the other chamber.

[kien]

Another option is to, again, cut out that section where the 90 degree drops into the sump. Replace the 90 degree with a 'T'. Have stem part of the 'T' drop down with a valve, and then the other part of the 'T' run a little further, then with a 90 degree, then valve into the second chamber. Or a valve right away out of the 'T' and a 90 into sump.

[Eb0la11]

Yeah I was thinking about the valve idea, that might work. I want zero air in either of those tubes. I think Im most definitely going to have to cut into the pipe and put in a valve below like you mention. Wont be too hard, might take an hour or two max. Other than that this thing is running quite well. Water is nice and level, overflow works, drains work well etc...

As of right now there is not enough room in the sump for a power outage from back flow. So far my check valve works wonderfully to prevent any flow backwards as my system has been "off" for the last 6-7 hours and my water levels all are exactly the same height. I know I cant rely on this part but it'll help. If it did fail Id see likely 25G of water flow back, if it works well then Id see about 10-15G flow back. Right now my sump can hold maybe an extra 5-7G and then once I build my emergency reservoir and plumb it I'll have enough for about 17G which is good enough. If I had 8G of water spill on my unfinished basement itd take me 30 mins to clean up.

Im still going to plumb an emergency overflow reservoir that will remain empty at all times. I luckily have a hole drilled into my sump above the height of the water in one of my chambers and so I am going to just 90 it straight up but below the height of my sumps top edge and direct it towards my empty QT tank, and when that isnt empty I'll just shove it in a 5G bucket. This way I should have enough room for the water if a power outage should it occur.

I'll likely fix this plumbing problem tomorrow and then I gotta figure out this stupid skimmer needle pump and as far as I can see into the future right now my system should be working perfect, but Im sure I'll run into another problem seeing as how this is my first build.

[fishytime]

I always recommend to pick up an extra check valve to swap in every 6 months to a year....most check valves fail due to a build up of crud on the seal....Just pop the old one out via the union and give it a soak in vinegar. Somewhat cheap peace of mind.

[Eb0la11]

Replacing the check valve would be pretty easy. Its in a good spot.

Also, Ive picked up the parts to run an absolute emergency drain into an empty reservoir that I can hook up. After I get that draining into, say a 10G bucket or tub, I would be very very confident my tank would be almost flood proof 100%.

Anyways, I went to the store today and was looking at small frags in the sps tank and just got wondering - what special care exactly do SPS corals need?

Im going to have a 165G tank with three 250W HQI Metal Hallides and four 96W Blue Actinics. My water will be completely RODI. Using reef crystals for salt.

What else do they need? Im guessing some kind of dosing? What other care? Id love to have some.

[Eb0la11]

Alright so I've managed to cut into my error in my plumbing and have replumbed my main drain from below my gate valve down. I originally T'd off into me refugium in a bad spot and also didnt have a valve after the t to force water into the refugium. Thats done!

Now Im basically fine tuning my used skimmer, which has been a headache so far, and think Im literally real close to mixing salt and putting some LR into the DT. Ive also plumbed in an emergency emergency drain that will prevent flooding completely should power go out or whatever.