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#1
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![]() This is true but often very difficult and impractical to implement. Measuring your tap water TDS is as simple as measuring your tank salinity. All you need is a very inexpensive TDS meter. Better safe than sorry is not an excuse for wasting valuable resources.
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#2
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![]() As soon as i find a tds reader ill post my reading and then mabe i can get a better idea of what i need to buy. Thanks for the opinions so far :O) so many options makes this all confusing sometimes,
I can say to a earlier post i really dont think im over feading. I take the frozen food, a tiny bit, put salt water in it to defreeze it, dump out the water and use a tooth pick to pick the food out and put in the water. The fish pritty much eat it almost before it hits the water, and i watch to see if any sink and it never does. Then i turn on the pumps. I do use a medicine dropper 2 times a week to squirt the brittle star so i guess that might be contamanating the water a little, but i use so little i thought he must be munching it all up right away? |
#3
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![]() Here is something interesting but also something that I suspected.
Chilliwack gets its water from an aquifer (ground water). It is much more susceptible to contamination (from what I have heard.. I am not an expert). Have you checked your source for nitrate or phosphates? (right out of the tap) You can find more info RE: your water here: http://www.gov.chilliwack.bc.ca/main/page.cfm?id=1249 I forgot to say.. I have a Lawnmower Blenny that keeps my green algaes in check. |
#4
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![]() Soooo I made it out to JL aquatics, already cant wait to go back. I bought a tds meter when i was their, and it says my tap water is 065 ppm. Thats pritty good isnt it? And if so should i just buy a R/O Or should i still just buck up and buy a RO/DI?
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#5
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![]() 65ppm isn't bad.. I get 14ppm out of my tap.
I guess if you're really concerned then you may as well get the full RO/DI until.. I think J&L has one for $200 or so. You could just get the Aquarium Pharma DI filter for about $60. It really depends on the size of your tank. With about 65ppm the filter will last you a while if your tank isn't big. And if you're patient. |
#6
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![]() This works nicely if your lucky enough to live in an area where your PPM is reasonably low:
http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/ro...er+Filter.html
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220Gal Dining room build complete! no bucket or barrel water changes!!! ![]() |
#7
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![]() Obviously there are seasonal variations in tapwater TDS but lately I've been contemplating just removing my RO membrane from my RO/DI unit. Our TDS is around 20 ppm on average at worst here in Victoria. I'm considering going with a 5 micron then 1 micron prefilter and two consecutive carbon blocks then my DI. This way I won't have the rejection water and I doubt I'll have any problems with exhausting my DI too quickly.
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |