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#1
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![]() Hi, Im in need of advice again. lol. I noticed im getting some green hair algae on my crushed corol. I want to fix this before it gets out of controll. I have just a little right now. My tanks a few months old, 30 Gallon. I do 10% water change a week but am using tap water which i have prepared 7 days before each change. I only have live rock and a couple clowns, a brittle star, 2 turbo snails and 2 hermit crabs. SO im thinking i need to do something about the tap water. Im looking on JL Aquatics and my question. Should i buy the $50 water purafier (im thinking no) and if i need a more expencive one which brand, Aqua Fx or the Kent Brand. And do i need a R/O or should i just buck up the little extra and get the R/O D/I. Im planing on just ordering online since i live to far away from their so i cant go in and ask for advice. Any help on this would be great!! I check my water regulary with the saltwater master kit my api and my Nitrate Nitrite Amonia and Ph looks fine. I have not checked any thing else yet.
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#2
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![]() Probably hundreds of ways to purify it, best results are obtained by taking a 5 gallon pail to the confessional.
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#3
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![]() at this point i would really reccomend a dechlorinater. when i used tap water i used "safe" to dechlor. it is also a de nitrifiyer. i switched to a rodi from red coral and do notice a significant difference in quality, even just to the eye.
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72 Gallon Bowfront Reef.. Hardware:2x250w Luminex Elite HQI Reflectors (Phoenix Hexarc Bulbs), Galaxy 2x250w Electronic ballast, Euroreef 130 Skimmer, Sedra KSP 7000 Retern... Live Stock: Pair of Hawaiian Flame Wrasse, Leopard Wrasse, Pink Streaked Wrasse, Pair True Percula Clowns, Potters Angel, African Flameback Angel, Orange Fin Tomini Tang, Yellow Assessor, Tailspot Blenny, Purple Firefish.. 45 G FW Asain Barb Community tank. |
#4
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![]() Iv been using Aqua Plus tap water condition to remove the chlorine, Is that the same thing? After i do a water change i fill the container up get the salt right, put in my Aqua Plus tap water conditioner, I was also adding cycle but didnt for my last couple water changes, and then i let that airate for 7 days till my next water change. I think i need to do more though, Im going to try to find a TDS so i can check my water but have a feeling ill have to order that in to.
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#5
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![]() I just realized you said that "safe" stuff is also a de nitrifiyer. Ill try to find that and try switching. Sounds like that does more then the Aqua Pluse tap water conditioner
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#6
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![]() Thought the lower mainland water was rather good right from the tap (treated for chlorine). The crushed coral might be contributing to your problems as well as the amounts your feeding.
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my tank Last edited by mark; 07-17-2009 at 05:57 AM. |
#7
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![]() Best thing to do is get an inexpensive RO/DI unit, Aquasafe brand comes to mind (eBay...what I use). No need to purchase the really exspensive RO/DIunits, and honestly RO water is essentially required for a successful saltwater tank (and the RO unit can also serve other purposes around the home, drinking water, ice-maker etc.). Go with an RO/DI unit of some sort, you will not regret it.
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I'm out. ![]() |
#8
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![]() Quote:
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#9
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![]() Your needs will depend on the quality of your tap water. Here in Stoon I get a TDS of about 180ppm from the tap so I use a full 6 stage RO/DI to bring this down to the range of 0-4ppm. I've talked a few people down in BC who get a reading as low as 20-30ppm so they can usually just use a dual or triple stage (no ro or di) and get similar results as me.
RO units are very wasteful and I don't believe you should use one unless you need to. |
#10
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![]() As an oposing view, I think everyone should use RO for a reef, it eliminates any questions on quality of source water. If water waste is an issue, there are several options for reclaimation, from laundry use to gardening.
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Brad Last edited by Aquattro; 07-17-2009 at 06:28 PM. |