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#1
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![]() Just a heads up...the membranes on RO units arent designed for short run times, so plumbing it in such a way will drastically reduce the life span of the membranes. Not sure if this is what you had in mind but.....
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#2
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![]() Ive heard, my problem has turned into a huge lack of space though. My other thought was trying to combine at QT with a freshwater holding tank, maybe a 20G that could be used for whichever in needed. I dont know, im going to fix that leak in the plumbing before anything. Thanks for the tip, I agree I would rather extend the life of the $200 RO/DI unit.
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#3
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![]() Okay, done the plumbing. In the process of testing it, and an hour in and still no leaks
![]() Going to start filling it up tonight with RO water. Planned on picking up my lights next week, I was thinking of the Tek T5 48" 6 bulb x 54w. Seems like quite a few people went this way. I was thinking about HQI but just didnt want to get into all the problems of heating the water up to much. The Tek will end up giving my just over 3 1/2 watts/gallon on the conservative side. The only question I had is whether or not the light would reach deep enough (23" maybe 20-21" with sand) for say some clams ![]() Another question I was going to ask the very knowledgeable people on this forum is what they were using for test kits. Which brand do you you like and why? Thanks Tyson |
#4
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![]() My tank is 20" deep 12x39w (six each side),most of my clams are on the bottom. Have some sps in the lower half of the tank too. You shouldnt have a problem running 6x54w. Depending on what clams you were thinking of, crocea and maxima prefer to be on rock anyway. So, unless you find a super flat rock to put them on at the bottom of the tank, they will likely be up a bit.
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 Last edited by fishytime; 05-07-2009 at 10:37 PM. |
#5
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![]() Quote:
90G in a basement, correct? You shouldn't have a problem with Metal Halides... I am running 2x250W HQI's on my 75 and see very little fluctuation in my temps. 1.5 degrees at most.. 25-26 at night and 26-27 in the day. Plus a set of 2x54 T5s... Test kits for me.. Salifert for Alk and Mag, Elos for Ca, pH, NO2, NO3, NH4..
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180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988 |
#6
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![]() Quote:
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#7
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180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988 |
#8
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![]() Hah, Forum fight. Taking bets...
I think ill stick with T5s, its going to give me the light I need with less wattage which means a happier enmax bill! Pfft on the fitting with the RO unit, or maybe pffft on the plumbing in this 30 year old house. either way im heading back to Rona. Im going to see if they have a gold card for people that are in there every day. Thanks Josh for the test kit, ill take a look at it. |