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#11
06-30-2008, 02:40 PM
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Megadream is into routers and wants to help out?
 The best solid carbid bit I have found was the Onsrud upcut spiral. Since you are using a table, a bit with a flush trim bearing is useful for template cutting. 
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#13
06-30-2008, 07:26 PM
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Good to know the upcut spiral bits do the trick. I had been considering giving the up/down cut bits a try.
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28g Nano Cube drilled with 13g sump in stock stand. Vertex IN80 Skimmer, Phosban 150 Reactor, Apex Controller, DIY LED with stock hood, dimmable Established March 2006
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#14
06-30-2008, 09:58 PM
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yeah, the freud up-spiral cut bit is fantastic.. love it to "bits" :-)
I am not having fun trying to do 90 degree cuts..... the piece wants to slide on me and it is never perfect. Anyone have any tips on that?
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Chad
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#15
07-03-2008, 10:56 PM
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90 degree cuts? Like trimmer after welding two pieces at a 90 ??
My advice if anything is slipping, is buy a bunch of clamps! I use the cheap import type bar clamps for my projects. Otherwise hire a friend with good grip!  Also for the record I use a Freud 10" x 80 tooth acrylic and plastics blade for straight cuts on a table saw. It is amazing how clean it will cut
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28g Nano Cube drilled with 13g sump in stock stand. Vertex IN80 Skimmer, Phosban 150 Reactor, Apex Controller, DIY LED with stock hood, dimmable Established March 2006
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#16
07-04-2008, 01:47 AM
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Sorry guys, must have missed that one the other morning. You can always click on the reported post icon, its the little red triangle to the upper right corner of the post box. That way I can get to it right away
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free.
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#17
07-04-2008, 05:01 PM
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well, my router table has a very crappy miter guide.. So I cannot make 100% 90 degree cuts.. I tried to make a coping sled, but it suffers from the same sloppiness in the miter slot. Was wondering if someone had a good jig for 90 degree angles.
Ok, I have one problem, one seam has a large bubble.. It was not there when I left it last night but it developed over night I guess. I have read that I can drill a small hole and squeeze in weldon 16. Has anyone tried that? Or should I just install a gusset? Also, anyone know where to get weldon 40?
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Chad
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#18
07-05-2008, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
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#19
07-05-2008, 03:11 AM
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Weldon 16 is a thick glue and would work for filling gaps
What did you use to glue the joint? I sand it lightly if required, clean it with isopropyl alcohol then use straight methylene chloride to weld joints
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28g Nano Cube drilled with 13g sump in stock stand. Vertex IN80 Skimmer, Phosban 150 Reactor, Apex Controller, DIY LED with stock hood, dimmable Established March 2006
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#20
07-06-2008, 03:06 AM
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I used weldon #4. I have some pretty nice seams for my first time. Out of the four sides of the sump I have together, 3 have only a few tiny, it bitty bubbles and most of it is crystal clear perfect seam. However, my last seam of the day, developed a bubble that looks like it goes all the way through. It is on the top portion of the sump, so maybe not critical but would like it fixed.
The router table is not DIY. But its miter slot is not standard. So I cannot use some of the regular miter stuff that is available. I have thought about making a new miter slot and putting in a standard T track, but it is getting a bit expensive for something I was DIY'ing *the sump* to save money on. At this point it would have been less to get it made by someone else 
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Chad
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