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#1
05-24-2008, 07:27 AM
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plumbing
Here are a couple of pics with the tank on the stand and plumbing in place. I haven't put water in it yet. Hope it works!
Tank on stand:  Plumbing (warning: it's not pretty!):  I just bought another 5.5G sump. Regards, Nevin 
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#2
05-24-2008, 10:41 AM
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Good progress on this new system. Waiting patiently to see pics of it finally wet
__________________
If you see it, can take care of it, better get it or put it on hold. Otherwise, it'll be gone & you'll regret it!
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#3
05-27-2008, 07:23 AM
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Leak test
First leak test tonight. The return plumbing is pretty leaky--I used a few pieces of plumbing intended for sprinklers that seem not to be a perfect fit with the rest of the 3/4" PVC. It's glued well enough that I can't pull it apart, but not well enough to hold water... I have most of the parts I need to redo it, but I'll have to try to drill out a part that's glued into the check valve tailpiece. Though the check valve is a true union type that comes apart, I don't think I can buy just a replacement tailpiece.
The tank picture follows, finally with some water. I'll probably try to bring the sump water level down a bit. As it is, a pump and check valve failure would likely cause an overflow into the stand (which is sealed with silicone), but not onto the floor (which would be a disaster). 
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#4
06-04-2008, 06:27 AM
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Update
Finally, saltwater in the tank! I ripped apart the return plumbing and redid it. Much better now with no leaks. The only issue is the swing check valve--when I cut power to the return pump the flap in the valve jitters back and forth making a loud noise and allowing a significant amount of water through before closing. It also allows a trickle of water through when closed. I think I've read that they're adjustable--would I just tighten the screw(s) holding the flap to make it close quicker? Here is the valve I have:
3/4 true union swing check valve Otherwise I'll have to lower the sump water level, put some plumbing on the return inside the tank to prevent syphon, put an aqualifter on battery backup to compensate or all of the above... I don't want to be too dependent on the check valve but there aren't a lot of other options. I have put some of my existing live rock and sand, plus some new sand in the tank and will allow to cycle as I'm going out of town for a few days. I don't expect there will be much of a cycle just transferring from the old tank to the new one, will there? Pictures follow and see my old 10G thread for new pictures as well. Leak test:  Plumbing:  Cycling:  Any suggestions appreciated as usual. Regards, Nevin
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#6
06-05-2008, 04:49 AM
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Thanks Midnight! Trouble is, with the amount of time I spend on this stuff I would have to work for about $2/hour to be competitive if I were doing it for anyone else (and they would have to be willing to wait a year or two to get it done!).
Anyone have any thoughts on the check valve? Regards, Nevin
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#7
06-05-2008, 05:10 AM
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The thing about check valves is that they require head pressure to make them close. So at 6 inches bellow water height you would have .217 psi pushing down and at 1foot .433 psi . Therefore, the lower the better.
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Sebae
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#8
06-05-2008, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
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Enquiring minds want to know… 
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) to help with my stands.
Hybrid Mode
