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#1
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![]() This is to document the build of my 14G reef tank, which will replace my 10G:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=38635 The 10G has only been running for a few months, but wasn't really intended to do anything more than get me started learning about saltwater systems. It served that purpose well, and now it's time for something new. My intent is to build this new system as a nano version of a full system, fully customized and designed for easy maintenance. Thanks to a few good bargains, I am able to do so sooner than expected with the features that I want--halides, Herbie overflow, sump, skimmer. I don't have much of a plan for livestock. Currently I have: 1 clownfish 1 urchin 5-6 astrea and margarita snails 8-10 blue-legged hermits 1 red scarlet hermit moon coral small zoas few mushrooms digitata 3 varieties of macro algae Pics will follow in a separate post. |
#2
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![]() Here's the current 10G. The stand will be customized for the new tank and all livestock will be transferred.
![]() Here's the new lighting in the hood that came with it (I'll probably make an oak pendant fixture to match the stand), 175w MH: ![]() Here's the new tank (small at 14G, but it's hard to find anything without plastic trim): ![]() Here it is after drilling by Seahorse Fanatic (thanks!) and painted with black Krylon Fusion: ![]() I figured I would indulge myself spending some of my tax return on lights or a nice tank, but so far I've gotten some great deals and haven't spent much on anything. I'll just have to make up for it when it's time for livestock! Next post: plumbing. |
#3
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![]() Here's the back of the tank with plumbing parts:
![]() My plan: Herbie overflow on the left (viewed from the front, not the back as the picture above). I'll make an internal overflow from black acrylic from the top to midway down the back. Return will be on the right. Plumbing will be as follows, from top to bottom: Return: bulkhead, 90 elbow, union, check valve, ball valve, pump, strainer/sponge Overflow: strainer, 90 elbow, bulkhead, 90 elbow, union, gate valve, outlet Emergency: strainer, 90 elbow, bulkhead, 90 elbow, outlet I will attach the plumbing to the stand so the glass doesn't bear all the weight. I don't intend to use the return as the main source of flow in the tank, so I'm thinking of using a Mag 2 for about 200 GPH against 2' head per the Reef Central calculator vs. the Mag 3 for about 300 GPH. I don't have the experience to know what 200 GPH looks like, but I'm guessing more than that would stir up the sand too much and might be hard on the chaeto in my tiny 5.5G sump/refugium. I'll add a Koralia in the display--I have a nano and a 1. I've never plumbed a tank before, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. |
#4
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![]() The last picture was not intended in any way as advocacy for the National Post, whose editorial policy I despise.
I just tried to add up the costs for this build, and came up with almost $500. This does not include everything I have spent on the old setup, but does include the rock, livestock and existing stand to be transferred from the old system. It includes a few items that I will likely sell to recover some money. It also includes upcoming expenses that I am aware of, the Mag 2 and PC actinic bulb. This figure seems shockingly high to me, given that I have gone with a low-budget, do-it-yourself approach. I know, though, that a basic biocube with stand and the same livestock would be boring and ugly at about the same price. Regards, Nevin |
#5
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![]() Any opinions on the plumbing layout and Mag 2 vs. 3 before I start putting it together?
I'm not sure if I should be worried about syphon from the return. Is the check valve enough? Would an airline inserted down the return work to bring in air and break syphon if the pump shut down and check valve failed? By the way, comments about biocubes in a previous post here weren't intended to disparage those who use them. I know some people do amazing things with them, it's just not the way I want to go. Regards, Nevin |
#6
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![]() Tank is looking good and really coming together. Part of me would argue that the Mag3 would not be too powerful for this setup since I know lots of people with multiple HydorKoralias in their nano. I guess worse comes to worse, if you find the flow too much, you could add another piece of pvc to split the return.
Anthony
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If you see it, can take care of it, better get it or put it on hold. Otherwise, it'll be gone & you'll regret it! |
#7
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![]() Thanks Anthony. I'm leaning toward 300GPH rather than 200. Looks like I'll probably run the pump submerged. See return pump thread:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...922#post321922 Sounds like the Mag pumps aren't as bulletproof as I thought, so I might just go for something cheaper. Quietone 1200 would work if I can buy one locally (could get 3 of them for the price of a Mag 3 at drsfostersmith if it weren't for the shipping, taxes, waiting for delivery, etc.) or a Rio 1100. The plumbing is starting to come together. Some pics: ![]() ![]() The flex tubing is a waterproof electrical conduit called Liquidtight (about $0.90/ft at Home Depot). Has anyone here used it? Doesn't say anything on it about antibacterial agents added. Anyone have suggestions on the plumbing before I break out the glue? Regards, Nevin |
#8
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![]() Slow progress on modifying the stand as I've been obsessed with plumbing. The bowfront poses an interesting woodworking challenge. My first attempt is basically diy plywood--laminating together strips of oak veneer around a curve. Looks like I'll need 6+ plies to get it thick enough. I'm laminating the first 3 plies today to see how it looks.
Picture: ![]() Hope it works! |
#9
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![]() Looks good.
See why you where thinking about running the pump external with a 175W. |
#10
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![]() I have used mag pumps for returns as well as Quiet One pumps and I personally prefer the Quiet One pumps. They may not last as long as a MAG but are way cheaper, quieter and give off much less heat. I would prefer to replace it every two years than use a MAG pump again. Thats just my experience though.
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