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#1
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![]() Good to hear...I thought I might have influenced you a little in the CADLIGHTS direction and I didn't want to hear that it was a nightmare.
Next time I'm in Summerland, we'll have to connect so I can see this beauty. Remember, you should be documenting this on camera so you can do a build thread.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#2
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![]() I set up my Cad tank yesterday. As a newbie it is a little frustrating that with 4 rear chambers CadLights did not give any guidance on how to use them.
Hopefully you can see this image. I turned on only the actinics to reduce the reflection. So from left to right, while viewing from the rear, how do you suggest using these 4 chambers? #1. This is shipped with bioballs installed. I was thinking of using these temporarily to get the bacteria count up as quickly as possible. If they are repacked in a mesh bag then they could all be removed and replaced wtih live rock rubble. 4" X 5" X 15" = 1.3G #2. This appears designed for the skimmer. Someone suggested the UV light could also be installed in here. Although I am questioning using the UV light. It would kill both good and bad guys equally? 5.75" X 5" X 16" = 1.9G #3. Refugium? The refugium light could be installed to shine from the top down or from the back. It is very deep, how best to utilize a deep refugium? 7" X 5" X 12.5" = 1.9G #4. Return pump. Install heater here? 4.5" X 5" X15" = 1.5G #5. (below refugia) 7.5" X 5" X 2" = 0.3G ![]() |
#3
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![]() Drill holes in a small covering plater over bioball chamber for better water distribution. I used an old CD cover. UV lamp Just fits into the chamber with the skimmer. I would have liked to put in a better skimmer but not enough room. An additional hydor1 in the tank improves circ alot. With the HQI light on I did not need to add a heater.
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#4
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![]() Quote:
Better water distribution for where? Not clear on your concept here. I was originally looking at the Hydor Nano at 240 gph. Is 400gph better for this tank? |
#5
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![]() I found that when the water enters the bioball chamber it channels so I put a sieve plate on top of the balls and then the filter mat
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#6
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![]() I like that idea. There has been discussion that bio balls start to produce nitrates as detritus builds up. What has your experience been?
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#7
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![]() I have had this tank up since Oct 07. I see no large build up of detritus in the bioballs section. Having said that this tank is run with fish and corals. This tank also has 40lb of LR and a deep sand bed. Nitrates are taken up by the caulerpa in the tank, not in the fuge. I just do a little harvesting when it starts to over grow. The fuge tank needs more light but what it needs more is better internal circulation. To date I have had zero problems.
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#8
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![]() Quote:
And I'm assuming that you intend to run a heater anyways, even though your tank warms up during the day when the lights are on? What about at night, won't the tank cool overnight? Things should stay as close to 79 - 80 degrees both day and night, I would keep this in mind, or you might find the extreme temperature swings will just kill things... Also, marine tropical fish might not do well when the night temp drops.
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... |
#9
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![]() Your little tank looks really sweet, I should look into an AIO.
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... |
#10
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![]() Yes I do need to get a FTS before the frags arrive next week.
There is a 75W heater in the final chamber. Temps range from 78 to ~82 in the heat of the summer. My change to a Phoenix DE HQI hallide looks like it has solved my algae problem. It is much bluer thatn the original light. The original light was to far into the yellow spectrum. Now that I think the algae is solved I will remove the UV light.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |