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#1
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![]() Drill holes in a small covering plater over bioball chamber for better water distribution. I used an old CD cover. UV lamp Just fits into the chamber with the skimmer. I would have liked to put in a better skimmer but not enough room. An additional hydor1 in the tank improves circ alot. With the HQI light on I did not need to add a heater.
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#2
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![]() Quote:
Better water distribution for where? Not clear on your concept here. I was originally looking at the Hydor Nano at 240 gph. Is 400gph better for this tank? |
#3
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![]() I found that when the water enters the bioball chamber it channels so I put a sieve plate on top of the balls and then the filter mat
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#4
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![]() I like that idea. There has been discussion that bio balls start to produce nitrates as detritus builds up. What has your experience been?
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#5
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![]() I have had this tank up since Oct 07. I see no large build up of detritus in the bioballs section. Having said that this tank is run with fish and corals. This tank also has 40lb of LR and a deep sand bed. Nitrates are taken up by the caulerpa in the tank, not in the fuge. I just do a little harvesting when it starts to over grow. The fuge tank needs more light but what it needs more is better internal circulation. To date I have had zero problems.
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#6
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![]() Oscar, how is this tank setup going? What are your thoughts? What are you going to put into the tank?
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
I have been informed that the panels just left today by FedEx with delivery of March 27th. Seeing that I ordered the tank and cabinet on February 4th I am certainly learning the art of moving slowly in this hobby. In the meantine I purchased ~35lbs of live Cuban rock from Chris at Interior Reef. I had it bathing in a Rubbermaid tub but I had a problem getting the temperature to stabilize so I moved into the bare bottom tank. (I also purchased live sand, heater, test kit etc. from Chris. Great to have him setting up shop in the valley.) The tank is perched on my workbench with the rear compartments facing out. That has given me a chance to study the "layout" of the tank and compartments. When the cabinet is constructed then I will tear down this temporary installation and start again at the tank's final placement. I will take a few photos of the temp setup soon. Everything is running well. I will need to deal with the microbubbles generated by the skimmer and reducing the waterfall sound as water enters the refugium. Anxously awaiting final installation. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
And I'm assuming that you intend to run a heater anyways, even though your tank warms up during the day when the lights are on? What about at night, won't the tank cool overnight? Things should stay as close to 79 - 80 degrees both day and night, I would keep this in mind, or you might find the extreme temperature swings will just kill things... Also, marine tropical fish might not do well when the night temp drops.
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... |
#9
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![]() Your little tank looks really sweet, I should look into an AIO.
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... |
#10
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![]() Yes I do need to get a FTS before the frags arrive next week.
There is a 75W heater in the final chamber. Temps range from 78 to ~82 in the heat of the summer. My change to a Phoenix DE HQI hallide looks like it has solved my algae problem. It is much bluer thatn the original light. The original light was to far into the yellow spectrum. Now that I think the algae is solved I will remove the UV light.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |