My New 72"x20"x20" Tank Build

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

Ya, you can reduce the loop pipe diam from what your vertical lift pipe diam is after a T. Just like in drains, you cna go down 1 pipe size when using 2 pipes. So, 2". you can go to 1.75 or 1.5 on a closed loop manifold. Acctually, you can reduce the size after every T in the manifold. As long as they are even on each side of the main inlet T. Remember, your loosing GPH flow in the manifold after every tank outlet, so no need for the whole manifold to be the same size as the inlet. There will be a point in the manifold where the water will acctually be still, where water form the left and rigth sides meet, and basically stop. I did mine with a outlet in the center, where I belive the water will meet, so hopefully to not get stagnent section of the manifold. Weather it worked or not, that remains to be seen

Also, if your pump has a 1.5" outlet, you may be better off to keep the rise pipe form sump to tank that size. Increasing the vertical pipe to larger will add more water in the vertical colum, thus more weight. More weight the pump has to lift, the more head pressure the pump will see, the less GPH it will flow. On Horizontal, and bends, larger is better, but not uphill. Just ask any Firefighter. I'd much rather haul the 1.5" hose up 3 storys than the 2.5"

Just changing the pipe pump outlet pipe to 2" for the bulkhead will be fine, and I think, would be the best bet

Yeah I do understand the concept of increasing adding weight and pressure but I hear a lot of times that these pumps preform much better when increased by 1/2". The main issue here is that I HAVE to increase to 2" no matter what to go through the bulkhead. I have no choice there. Its just a matter of when. I was going to increase to 2" right away near the outlet and keep the manifold at 2" (still may). Otherwise, I think I will increase to 2" right away and then after the top "t", reduce down to 1.5".

I do understand what you are saying but there was also a specific reason people increase the pipe size on these pumps I just forget why

I know for sure that Mag pumps should always be plumbed with a size bigger pipe. The manufacturer states that themselves.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

I think you edited your post after and added basically what I was saying but in one sentence instead of a paragraph! LOL

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Anymore advice for the closed loop? I think I may just stick to going right to 2" stuff right after the output and then stay at 2". Im just unsure about what to use at each outlet? I don't really want to use loc line...

[banditpowdercoat]

I have seensome just cut little pipe pieces, heat the end and squish it to create a nozzle. I went Loc Line with mine mainly because this is my first tank, and I dont know exactly how the water should flow and such. so, 7 1/2" loc line nozzles should give me pretty good adjustability......I hope For almost $100, they better HAHAHA

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

I have seensome just cut little pipe pieces, heat the end and squish it to create a nozzle. I went Loc Line with mine mainly because this is my first tank, and I dont know exactly how the water should flow and such. so, 7 1/2" loc line nozzles should give me pretty good adjustability......I hope For almost $100, they better HAHAHA

Yeah I know what you mean! Plumbing is so ridiculously over priced for what it is!

So since I cannot seem to find a 2" Gate Valve in town, you you guys think reducing my overflow return down to 1.5" would be a bad idea? I thought 2" was overkill to begin with, so maybe? I can easily get 1.5" Gate Valves. The return pump is big though (Mag 24) and may need the 2" drains. I really do not know at this point.

The other option would be to scrap the whole herbie thing and do a traditional type overflow and return.

[untamed]

I wouldn't scrap the entire idea just because you are having a difficult time finding a 2" Gate Valve.

Here's an unconventional idea that could help you test the concept. After testing, you might find that a 1.5" Gate valve might be fine.

Take your 2" drain and split it into 2 lines. Put a 1.5" gate valve on one of the lines. Make the 2nd line 1" for a first test. Rejoin the lines back into a single 2" and continue downward toward your sump and fuge. Put union fittings above and below the tees so you can replace it once you figured out how it behaves.

The idea is that the 1" line functions as some restriction, while the 1.5" gate valve controls the total amount of the flow.

Diagram attached.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by untamed

I wouldn't scrap the entire idea just because you are having a difficult time finding a 2" Gate Valve.

Here's an unconventional idea that could help you test the concept. After testing, you might find that a 1.5" Gate valve might be fine.

Take your 2" drain and split it into 2 lines. Put a 1.5" gate valve on one of the lines. Make the 2nd line 1" for a first test. Rejoin the lines back into a single 2" and continue downward toward your sump and fuge. Put union fittings above and below the tees so you can replace it once you figured out how it behaves.

The idea is that the 1" line functions as some restriction, while the 1.5" gate valve controls the total amount of the flow.

Diagram attached.

Actually thats a pretty good idea. I think though I need to just wait and find a Gate Valve. My fish may just have to hang in there for a bit longer! Its really sad to see the Puffers pacing the glass so much