Profilux II plus aquarium controller

[mshur]

yes, i am
I did upgrade last nite..I went thrue LAn-tutorial step by step. No problem with RS cable connection,but LAn is the problem..

[Aqua-Digital]

If you send a pm to matthias he will have you up and running in no time with LAN, this is one area I am still learning myself but will be fully clued up in the next week.

In the meantime drop matthias a pm and i am sure all will connect. You will find his posts here if you scroll back

Regards
Michael
www.aqua-digital.com

[mshur]

Thankx Michael
i will do so......
i am going to work on it a litlle more...This is still very new for me)


mike

[Ginzo]

Hi Matthias,

Ok, I need your help, I don't understand the following:

I have both the float sensor and the optical sensor. Both of them are connected to the Y-splitter. Both of them are positioned in my sump and my desire if to switch off Water 1 (Eheim pump) if one of them registers that the nominal level is attained.

If I set the Profilux to the Operation Mode: 2 independent adjustment cycles, I see that both sensors work, since the optical sensor = Water 1 and the float sensor = Water 2 and when I trigger either one of them (nominal value attained), they both do what they should do: cut the power to the associated socket.

Only problem, is that I want both of them to control the socket outlet Water 1. How can I do this ???? It's pretty much useless if I can only control Water 1 and Water 2..since how am I going to turn off my Eheim pump (that is on outlet Water1) ???

Can you please help !

Thanks !
Ginzo

[Matthias Gross]

This is not possible with this firmware.

But: We will have programmable logic in ProfiLux very soon!
That means anyone can create his own logical expressions with AND, OR, NOT and so on -> any function can be realized.
Please wait some days.

[Fishie Nut]

Boolian logic is a GREAT addition.

Thanks, Matthias.

[Raul-7]

I have a couple of questions regarding the diagram.

Does U-shape drawing on the lamp mean I should use a jumper wire or why do 4-5, 6-7, etc. cross-over at the bulb they way it's shown?

And for connection 2, see how it goes off to the left and form a dot - does that just mean I should splice it with wire # 1?

Last question, while the dimmable interface has a grounding wire slot that requires a grounding wire from the ballast - the ballast itself has no slot for a ground wire connection. Should I just leave it empty?