Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > Polls

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-14-2006, 03:53 PM
littlesilvermax's Avatar
littlesilvermax littlesilvermax is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 779
littlesilvermax is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrmanchu View Post
I use 4 X 54 Watt T5HOs with individual parabolic reflectors, on my 55Gal display. I think the only thing I'm missing by not having Halides is "shimmer". I keep a Crocea a few inches off the bottom, and it looks great. I originally used only 2 bulbs, and when I went to 4, the Coraline on the top back of the tank actually bleached. When I get around to building the canopy it will be about 8 inches tall, low profile compared to Halides. The T5s also don't impact my Temp. as much as Halides. T5HO with a small Halide for "shimmer", IMO would be best.
I disagree with T5s or VHOs not affecting temp as much as halides. Flourescents put off a lot of heat too, it is just not as concentrated as a halide.

I think equal amounts of light = about the same amount of heat.

My halides affect my system by less then 1 degree F.
__________________
250 BB Starphire SPS, clams, & zoos
3 x 250 DE, IC 660 W/T5s
OM 4-way, Hammerhead Pump
Calcium, Kalk, RO filters, magnesium, Excellent prices
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-14-2006, 04:14 PM
kwirky's Avatar
kwirky kwirky is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,127
kwirky is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrmanchu View Post
I originally used only 2 bulbs, and when I went to 4, the Coraline on the top back of the tank actually bleached.
lol coraline doesn't grow in the top 8" of my own tank I've got a little porite frag up there now, and that's all there is for life up there. And the fixture is run ~7" from the water surface.

Quote:
Originally Posted by littlesilvermax View Post
I disagree with T5s or VHOs not affecting temp as much as halides. Flourescents put off a lot of heat too, it is just not as concentrated as a halide.
Agreed, my sunlight supply fixture (8 bulb 4' fixture) gave off crazy heat on my 120g. increased the temperature by 6-8 degrees without the 6", 100cfm AC fan! I think it was the light hitting the rocks, then warming the water. But it can really heat up the tank if I'm not careful. I run the fan on a timer to tweak evaporation/top-off, and I have to adjust it every once in a while.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fish View Post
Are you thinking of "Aquatinics" fixtures? ... I know that the Sunlight Supply have been tested with fans and a par meter and that their output is better with active cooling... but I didn't think it was anywhere near 75% better! I thought it was more like 15-20%???

- Chad
No, not the Aquatinics, I mean the ATI fixture is the "awesome" fixture from germany. Don't know if it's available yet, but I read about somone running one on a 120-240 transformer in order to review it, and it got an output of 320 (don't know what the reading was in. PAR, lux, dunno), compared to sunlight supply's 150. Somone on the same thread tested their sunlight supply fixture after active cooling was installed in the top (3 90mm computer fans), and it increased to 250. I just can't find the damned thread! ATI cools their fixtures to a specific temperature, and the reflectors are even coated in silver!

I remember reading somewhere, too, that measuring the PAR of flourescents is difficult compared to MH because of MH being a point source, and flourescents being a spread light. advanced aquarist had a good way of measuring a spread light source by measuring it the same way they measure MH reflectors. They used this method to review the solaris fixture.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/8/review2
__________________
Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me.

Last edited by kwirky; 11-14-2006 at 04:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-16-2006, 04:03 PM
BCOrchidGuy BCOrchidGuy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Coquitlam, BC
Posts: 2,172
BCOrchidGuy is on a distinguished road
Default

To get an accurate comparison you'd need to measure output from the lights at different depths in different shaped tanks and on and on and on. You'd also need to compare lights at the same power consumption and MEASURE the power usage and give results in a par/watt ratio I think you'd also need to find out how much power it takes to get the same par value from each fixture because increases in light is not linear (IE a 350watt MH will not give you twice as much light as a 175). You'd also need to use comparable quality and how the heck do you measure quality? A 400 watt Home depot MH yard light will not compare with a 400watt MH top of the line German set up and of couse a 25 watt T5 from Home depot will not comare with any of the better T5 set ups. Companies pay people big money to interpret test results to validate or support their opinions and product. Just look at the bit salt war over the years s-15 I believe. I think it's an interesting thread, being old and stubborn I still like MH but remember MH doesn't need to be on all day, a MH lamp will supply the needed light for most corals in a few hours (4-6). If I'm not mistaken (again) MH is supposed to simulate noon day sun, IE sun overhead not dawn till dusk. When I do my next tank I think I'll do the 250HQI MH for 6 hours and have PC 50/50 for 14 hours a day.

Doug

Last edited by BCOrchidGuy; 12-16-2006 at 04:08 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 08:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.